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CHAPTER V.
ROADS AND TRAVELLING IN ENGLAND TOWARDS
THE END OF LAST CENTURY.
THE progress made
in the improvement of the roads throughout England was exceedingly
slow. Though some of the main throughfares were mended so as
to admit of stage-coach travelling at the rate of from four to six
miles an hour, the less frequented roads continued to be all but
impassable. Travelling was still difficult, tedious, and
dangerous. Only those who could not well avoid it ever thought
of undertaking a journey, and travelling for pleasure was out of the
question. A writer in the 'Gentleman's Magazine' in 1752 says
that a Londoner at that time would no more think of travelling into
the west of England for pleasure than of going to Nubia.
But signs of progress were not awanting. In 1749
Birmingham started a stage-coach, which made the journey to London
in three days. [p.73] In
1754 some enterprising Manchester men advertised a "flying coach"
for the conveyance of passengers between that town and the
metropolis; and, lest they should be classed with projectors of the
Munchausen kind, they heralded their enterprise with this statement:
"However incredible it may appear, this coach will actually (barring
accidents) arrive in London in four days and a half after leaving
Manchester! "
Fast coaches were also established on several of the northern
roads, though not with very extraordinary results as to speed.
When John Scott, afterwards Lord Chancellor Eldon, travelled from
Newcastle to Oxford in 1766, he mentions that he journeyed in what
was denominated "a fly," because of its rapid travelling; yet he was
three or four days and nights on the road. There was no such
velocity, however, as to endanger overturning or other mischief.
On the panels of the coach were painted the appropriate motto of
Sat cito si sat bene—quick enough if well enough—a motto which
the future Lord Chancellor made his own. [p.74]
The journey by coach between London and Edinburgh still
occupied six days or more, according to the state of the weather.
Between Bath or Birmingham and London occupied between two and three
days as late as 1763. The road across Hounslow Heath was so
bad, that it was stated before a Parliamentary Committee that it was
frequently known to be two feet deep in mud. The rate of
travelling was about six and a half miles an hour; but the work was
so heavy that it "tore the horses' hearts out," as the common saying
went, so that they only lasted two or three years.
When the Bath road became improved, Burke was enabled, in the
summer of 1774, to travel from London to Bristol, to meet the
electors there, in little more than four and twenty hours; but his
biographer takes care to relate that he "travelled with incredible
speed." Glasgow was still ten days' distance from the
metropolis, and the arrival of the mail there was so important an
event that a gun was fired to announce its coming in.
Sheffield set up a "flying machine on steel springs" to London in
1760: it "slept" the first night at the Black Man's Head Inn,
Nottingham; the second at the Angel, Northampton; and arrived at the
Swan with Two Necks, Lad-lane, on the evening of the third day.
The fare was £1. 17s., and 14 lbs. of luggage was allowed. But
the principal part of the expense of travelling was for living and
lodging on the road, not to mention the fees to guards and drivers.
Though the Dover road was still one of the best in the
kingdom, the Dover flying-machine, carrying only four passengers,
took a long summer's day to perform the journey. It set out
from Dover at four o'clock in the morning, breakfasted at the Red
Lion, Canterbury, and the passengers ate their way up to town at
various inns on the road, arriving in London in time for supper.
Smollett complained of the innkeepers along that route as the
greatest set of extortioners in England. The deliberate style
in which journeys were performed may be inferred from the
circumstance that on one occasion, when a quarrel took place between
the guard and a passenger, the coach stopped to see them fight it
out on the road.
Foreigners who visited England were peculiarly observant of
the defective modes of conveyance then in use. Thus, one Don
Manoel Gonzales, a Portuguese merchant, who travelled through Great
Britain in 1740, speaking of Yarmouth, says, "They have a comical
way of carrying people all over the town and from the seaside, for
six pence. They call it their coach, but it is only a
wheel-barrow drawn by one horse, without any covering."
Another foreigner, Herr Alberti, a Hanoverian professor of theology,
when on a visit to Oxford in 1750, desiring to proceed to Cambridge,
found there was no means of doing so without returning to London and
there taking coach for Cambridge. There was not even the
convenience of a carrier's waggon between the two universities.
But the most amusing account of an actual journey by stage-coach
that we know of, is that given by a Prussian clergyman, Charles H.
Moritz, who thus describes his adventures on the road between
Leicester and London in 1782:—
"Being obliged," he says, "to
bestir myself to get back to London, as the time drew near when the
Hamburgh captain with whom I intended to return had fixed his
departure, I determined to take a place as far as Northampton on the
outside. But this ride from Leicester to Northampton I shall
remember as long as I live.
"The coach drove from the yard through a part of the house.
The inside passengers got in from the yard, but we on the outside
were obliged to clamber up in the street, because we should have had
no room for our heads to pass under the gateway. My companions
on the top of the coach were a farmer, a young man very decently
dressed, and a black-amoor. The getting up alone was at the
risk of one's life, and when I was up I was obliged to sit just at
the corner of the coach, with nothing to hold by but a sort of
little handle fastened on the side. I sat nearest the wheel,
and the moment that we set off I fancied that I saw certain death
before me. All I could do was to take still tighter hold of
the handle, and to be strictly careful to preserve my balance.
The machine rolled along with prodigious rapidity over the stones
through the town, and every moment we seemed to fly into the air, so
much so that it appeared to me a complete miracle that we stuck to
the coach at all. But we were completely on the wing as often
as we passed through a village or went down a hill.
"This continual fear of death at last became insupportable to
me, and, therefore, no sooner were we crawling up a rather steep
hill, and consequently proceeding slower than usual, than I
carefully crept from the top of the coach, and was lucky enough to
get myself snugly ensconced in the basket behind.
"'O, Sir, you will be shaken to death!' said the black-amoor;
but I heeded him not, trusting that he was exaggerating the
unpleasantness of my new situation. And truly, as long as we
went on slowly up hill it was easy and pleasant enough; and I was
just on the point of falling asleep among the surrounding trunks and
packages, having had no rest the night before, when on a sudden the
coach proceeded at a rapid rate down the hill. Then all the
boxes, iron-nailed and copper-fastened, began, as it were, to dance
around me; everything in the basket appeared to be alive, and every
moment I received such violent blows that I thought my last hour had
come. The black-a-moor had been right, I now saw clearly; but
repentance was useless, and I was obliged to suffer horrible torture
for nearly an hour, which seemed to me an eternity. At last we
came to another hill, when, quite shaken to pieces, bleeding, and
sore, I ruefully crept back to the top of the coach to my former
seat. 'Ah, did I not tell you that you would be shaken to
death?' inquired the black man, when I was creeping along on my
stomach. But I gave him no reply. Indeed, I was ashamed;
and I now write this as a warning to all strangers who are inclined
to ride in English stage-coaches, and take an outside seat, or,
worse still, horror of horrors, a seat in the basket.
"From Harborough to Northampton I had a most dreadful
journey. It rained incessantly, and as before we had been
covered with dust, so now we were soaked with rain. My
neighbour, the young man who sat next me in the middle, every now
and then fell asleep; and when in this state he perpetually bolted
and rolled against me, with the whole weight of his body, more than
once nearly pushing me from my seat, to which I clung with the last
strength of despair. My forces were nearly giving way, when at
last, happily, we reached Northampton, on the evening of the 14th
July, 1782, an ever-memorable day to me.
"On the next morning, I took an inside place for London.
We started early in the morning. The journey from Northampton
to the metropolis, however, I can scarcely call a ride, for it was a
perpetual motion, or endless jolt from one place to another, in a
close wooden box, over what appeared to be a heap of unhewn stones
and trunks of trees scattered by a hurricane. To make my
happiness complete, I had three travelling companions, all farmers,
who slept so soundly that even the hearty knocks with which they
hammered their heads against each other and against mine did not
awake them. Their faces, bloated and discoloured by ale and
brandy and the knocks aforesaid, looked, as they lay before me, like
so many lumps of dead flesh.
"I looked, and certainly felt, like a crazy fool when we
arrived at London in the afternoon." [p.79]
Arthur Young, in his books, inveighs strongly against the
execrable state of the roads in all parts of England towards the end
of last century. In Essex he found the ruts "of an incredible
depth," and he almost swore at one near Tilbury. "Of all the
cursed roads," he says; "that ever disgraced this kingdom in the
very ages of barbarism, none ever equalled that from Billericay to
the King's Head at Tilbury. It is for near twelve miles so
narrow that a mouse cannot pass by any carriage. I saw a
fellow creep under his waggon to assist me to lift, if possible, my
chaise over a hedge. To add to all the infamous circumstances
which concur to plague a traveller, I must not forget the eternally
meeting with chalk waggons, themselves frequently stuck fast, till a
collection of them are in the same situation, and twenty or thirty
horses may be tacked to each to draw them out one by one!" [p.80]
Yet will it be believed, the proposal to form a turnpike-road from
Chelmsford to Tilbury was resisted "by the Bruins of the country,
whose horses were worried to death with bringing chalk through those
vile roads!"
Arthur Young did not find the turnpike any better between
Bury and Sudbury, in Suffolk: "I was forced to move as slow in it,"
he says, "as in any unmended lane in Wales. For, ponds of
liquid dirt, and a scattering of loose flints just sufficient to
lame every horse that moves near them, with the addition of cutting
vile grips across the road under the pretence of letting the water
off, but without effect, altogether render at least twelve out of
these sixteen miles as infamous a turnpike as ever was beheld."
Between Tetsworth and Oxford he found the so-called turnpike
abounding in loose stones as large as one's head, full of holes,
deep ruts, and withal so narrow that with great difficulty he got
his chaise out of the way of the Witney waggons. "Barbarous"
and "execrable" are the words which he constantly employs in
speaking of the roads; parish and turnpike, all seemed to be alike
bad. From Gloucester to Newnham, a distance of twelve miles,
he found a "cursed road," "infamously stony," with "ruts all the
way." From Newnham to Chepstow he noted another bad feature in
the roads, and that was the perpetual hills; "for," he says, "you
will form a clear idea of them if you suppose the country to
represent the roofs of houses joined, and the road to run across
them." It was at one time even a matter of grave dispute
whether it would not cost as little money to make that between
Leominster and Kington navigable as to make it hard. Passing
still further west, the unfortunate traveller, who seems scarcely
able to find words to express his sufferings, continues:—
"But, my dear Sir, what am I to
say of the roads in this country! the turnpikes! as they have the
assurance to call them and the hardiness to make one pay for?
From Chepstow to the half-way house between Newport and Cardiff they
continue mere rocky lanes, full of hugeous stones as big as one's
horse, and abominable holes. The first six miles from Newport
they were so detestable, and without either direction-posts or
milestones, that I could not well persuade myself I was on the
turnpike, but had mistook the road, and therefore asked every one I
met, who answered me, to my astonishment, 'Ya-as!'
Whatever business carries you into this country, avoid it, at least
till they have good roads: if they were good, travelling would be
very pleasant." [p.81]
At a subsequent period Arthur Young visited the northern
counties; but his account of the roads in that quarter is not more
satisfactory. Between Richmond and Darlington he found them
like to "dislocate his bones," being broken in many places into deep
holes, and almost impassable; "yet," says he, "the people will
drink tea!"—a decoction against the use of which the traveller is
found constantly declaiming. The roads in Lancashire made him
almost frantic, and he gasped for words to express his rage.
Of the road between Proud Preston and Wigan he says: "I know not in
the whole range of language terms sufficiently expressive to
describe this infernal road. Let me most seriously caution all
travellers who may accidentally propose to travel this terrible
country, to avoid it as they would the devil; for a thousand to one
they break their necks or their limbs by overthrows or
breakings-down. They will here meet with ruts, which I
actually measured, four feet deep, and floating with mud only
from a wet summer. What, therefore, must it be after a winter?
The only mending it receives is tumbling in some loose stones, which
serve no other purpose than jolting a carriage in the most
intolerable manner. These are not merely opinions, but facts;
for I actually passed three carts broken down in those
eighteen miles of execrable memory." [p.82]
It would even appear that the bad state of the roads in the
Midland counties, about the same time, had nearly caused the death
of the heir to the throne. On the 2nd of September, 1789, the
Prince of Wales left Wentworth Hall, where he had been on a visit to
Earl Fitzwilliam, and took the road for London in his carriage.
When about two miles from Newark the Prince's coach was overturned
by a cart in a narrow part of the road; it rolled down a slope,
turning over three times, and landed at the bottom, shivered to
pieces. Fortunately the Prince escaped with only a few bruises
and a sprain; but the incident had no effect in stirring up the
local authorities to make any improvement in the road, which
remained in the same wretched state until a comparatively recent
period.
When Palmer's new mail-coaches were introduced, an attempt
was made to diminish the jolting of the passengers by having the
carriages hung upon new patent springs, but with very indifferent
results. Mathew Boulton, the engineer, thus described their
effect upon himself in a journey he made in one of them from London
into Devonshire, in 1787:—
"I had the most disagreeable
journey I ever experienced the night after I left you, owing to the
new improved patent coach, a vehicle loaded with iron trappings and
the greatest complication of unmechanical contrivances jumbled
together, that I have ever witnessed. The coach swings
sideways, with a sickly sway without any vertical spring; the point
of suspense bearing upon an arch called a spring, though it is
nothing of the sort. The severity of the jolting occasioned me
such disorder that I was obliged to stop at Axminster and go to bed
very ill. However, I was able next day to proceed in a
post-chaise. The landlady in the London Inn, at Exeter,
assured me that the passengers who arrived every night were in
general so ill that they were obliged to go supperless to bed; and,
unless they go back to the old-fashioned coach, hung a little lower,
the mail-coaches will lose all their custom." [p.83]
We may briefly refer to the several stages of improvement if
improvement it could be called—in the most frequented highways of
the kingdom, and to the action of the legislature with reference to
the extension of turnpikes. The trade and industry of the
country had been steadily improving; but the greatest obstacle to
their further progress was always felt to be the disgraceful state
of the roads. As long ago as the year 1663 an Act was passed [p.84-1]
authorising the first toll-gates or turnpikes to be erected at which
collectors were stationed to levy small sums from those using the
road, for the purpose of defraying the needful expenses of their
maintenance. This Act, however, only applied to a portion of
the Great North Road between London and York, and it authorised the
new toll-bars to be erected at Wade's Mill in Hertfordshire, at
Caxton in Cambridgeshire, and at Stilton in Huntingdonshire. [p.84-2]
The Act was not followed by any others for a quarter of a century,
and even after that lapse of time such Acts as were passed of a
similar character were very few and far between.
For nearly a century more, travellers from Edinburgh to
London met with no turnpikes until within about 110 miles of the
metropolis. North of that point there was only a narrow
causeway fit for pack-horses, flanked with clay sloughs on either
side. It is, however, stated that the Duke of Cumberland and
the Earl of Albemarle, when on their way to Scotland in pursuit of
the rebels in 1746, did contrive to reach Durham in a coach and six;
but there the roads were found so wretched, that they were under the
necessity of taking to horse, and Mr. George Bowes, the county
member, made his Royal Highness a present of his nag to enable him
to proceed on his journey. The roads west of Newcastle were so
bad, that in the previous year the royal forces under General Wade,
which left Newcastle for Carlisle to intercept the Pretender and his
army, halted the first night at Ovingham, and the second at Hexham,
being able to travel only twenty miles in two days. [p.85]
The rebellion of 1745 gave a great impulse to the
construction of roads for military as well as civil purposes.
The nimble Highlanders, without baggage or waggons, had been able to
cross the border and penetrate almost to the centre of England
before any definite knowledge of their proceedings had reached the
rest of the kingdom. In the metropolis itself little
information could be obtained of the movements of the rebel army for
several days after they had left Edinburgh. Light of foot,
they outstripped the cavalry and artillery of the royal army, which
were delayed at all points by impassable roads. No sooner,
however, was the rebellion put down, than Government directed its
attention to the best means of securing the permanent subordination
of the Highlands, and with this object the construction of good
highways was declared to be indispensable. The expediency of
opening up the communication between the capital and the principal
towns of Scotland was also generally admitted; and from that time,
though slowly, the construction of the main high routes between
north and south made steady progress.
The extension of the turnpike system, however, encountered
violent opposition from the people, being regarded as a grievous tax
upon their freedom of movement from place to place. Armed
bodies of men assembled to destroy the turnpikes; and they burnt
down the toll-houses and blew up the posts with gunpowder. The
resistance was the greatest in Yorkshire, along the line of the
Great North Road towards Scotland, though riots also took place in
Somersetshire and Gloucestershire, and even in the immediate
neighbourhood of London. One fine May morning, at Selby, in
Yorkshire, the public bellman summoned the inhabitants to assemble
with their hatchets and axes that night at midnight, and cut down
the turnpikes erected by Act of Parliament; nor were they slow to
act upon his summons. Soldiers were then sent into the
district to protect the toll-bars and the toll-takers; but this was
a difficult matter, for the toll-gates were numerous, and wherever a
"pike" was left unprotected at night, it was found destroyed in the
morning. The Yeadon and Otley mobs, near Leeds, were
especially violent. On the 18th of June, 1753, they made quite
a raid upon the turnpikes, burning or destroying about a dozen in
one week. A score of the rioters were apprehended, and while
on their way to York Castle a rescue was attempted, when the
soldiers were under the necessity of firing, and many persons were
killed and wounded.
The prejudices entertained against the turnpikes were so
strong, that in some places the country people would not even use
the improved roads after they were made. [p.87-1]
For instance, the driver of the Marlborough coach obstinately
refused to use the New Bath road, but stuck to the old waggon-track,
called "Ramsbury." He was an old man, he said: his grandfather
and father had driven the aforesaid way before him, and he would
continue in the old track till death. [p.87-2]
Petitions were also presented to Parliament against the
extension of turnpikes; but the opposition represented by the
petitioners was of a much less honest character than that of the
misguided and prejudiced country folks, who burnt down the
toll-houses. It was principally got up by the agriculturists
in the neighbourhood of the metropolis, who, having secured the
advantages which the turnpike-roads first constructed had conferred
upon them, desired to retain a monopoly of the improved means of
communication. They alleged that if turnpike-roads were
extended into the remoter counties, the greater cheapness of labour
there would enable the distant farmers to sell their grass and corn
cheaper in the London market than themselves, and that thus they
would be ruined. [p.88]
This opposition, however, did not prevent the progress of turnpike
and highway legislation; and we find that, from 1760 to 1774, no
fewer than four hundred and fifty-two Acts were passed for making
and repairing highways. Nevertheless the roads of the kingdom
long continued in a very unsatisfactory state, chiefly arising from
the extremely imperfect manner in which they were made.
Road-making as a profession was as yet unknown.
Deviations were made in the old roads to make them more easy and
straight; but the deep ruts were merely filled up with any materials
that lay nearest at hand, and stones taken from the quarry, instead
of being broken and laid on carefully to a proper depth, were
tumbled down and roughly spread, the country road-maker trusting to
the operation of cart-wheels and waggons to crush them into a proper
shape. Men of eminence as engineers—and there were very few
such at the time—considered road-making beneath their consideration;
and it was even thought singular that, in 1768, the distinguished
Smeaton should have condescended to make a road across the valley of
the Trent, between Markham and Newark.
The making of the new roads was thus left to such persons as
might choose to take up the trade, special skill not being thought
at all necessary on the part of a road-maker. It is only in
this way that we can account for the remarkable fact, that the first
extensive maker of roads who pursued it as a business, was not an
engineer, nor even a mechanic, but a Blind Man, bred to no trade,
and possessing no experience whatever in the arts of surveying or
bridge-building, yet a man possessed of extraordinary natural gifts,
and unquestionably most successful as a road-maker. We allude
to John Metcalf, commonly known as "Blind Jack of Knaresborough," to
whose biography, as the constructor of nearly two hundred miles of
capital roads—as, indeed, the first great English road-maker—we
propose to devote the next chapter.
――――♦――――
CHAPTER VI.
JOHN METCALF, ROAD-MAKER.
JOHN
METCALF [p.90] was born at
Knaresborough in 1717, the son of poor working people. When
only six years old he was seized with virulent small-pox, which
totally destroyed his sight. The blind boy, when sufficiently
recovered to go abroad, first learnt to grope from door to door
along the walls on either side of his parents' dwelling. In
about six months he was able to feel his way to the end of the
street and back without a guide, and in three years he could go on a
message to any part of the town. He grew strong and healthy,
and longed to join in the sports of boys of his age. He went
bird-nesting with them, and climbed the trees while the boys below
directed him to the nests, receiving his share of eggs and young
birds. Thus he shortly became an expert climber, and could
mount with ease any tree that he was able to grasp. He rambled
into the lanes and fields alone, and soon knew every foot of the
ground for miles round Knaresborough. He next learnt to ride,
delighting above all things in a gallop. He contrived to keep
a dog and coursed hares: indeed, the boy was the marvel of the
neighbourhood. His unrestrainable activity, his acuteness of
sense, his shrewdness, and his cleverness, astonished everybody.
The boy's confidence in himself was such, that though blind, he was
ready to undertake almost any adventure. Among his other arts he
learned to swim in the Nidd, and became so expert that on one
occasion he saved the lives of three of his companions. Once, when
two men were drowned in a deep part of the river, Metcalf was sent
for to dive for them, which he did, and brought up one of the bodies
at the fourth diving: the other had been carried down the stream. He
thus also saved a manufacturer's yarn, a large quantity of which had
been carried by a sudden flood into a deep hole under the High
Bridge. At home, in the evenings, he learnt to play the fiddle, and
became so skilled on the instrument, that he was shortly able to
earn money by playing dance music at country parties. At Christmas
time he played waits, and during the Harrogate season he played to
the assemblies at the 'Queen's Head' and the 'Green Dragon.'
On one occasion, towards dusk, he acted as guide to a belated
gentleman along the difficult road from York to Harrogate. The road
was then full of windings and turnings, and in many places it was no
better than a track across unenclosed moors. Metcalf brought the
gentleman safe to his inn, 'The Granby,' late at night, and was
invited to join in a tankard of negus. On Metcalf leaving the room,
the gentleman observed to the landlord —"I think, landlord, my guide
must have drunk a great deal of spirits since we came here." "Why
so, Sir?" "Well, I judge so, from the appearance of his eyes." "Eyes!
bless you, Sir," rejoined the landlord, "don't you know that he
is blind?" "Blind! What do you mean by that?" "I mean, Sir, that he
cannot see—he is as blind as a stone." "Well, landlord," said the
gentleman, "this is really too much: call him in." Enter Metcalf "My
friend, are you really blind?" "Yes, Sir," said he, "I lost my sight
when six years old." "Had I known that, I would not have ventured
with you on that road from York for a hundred pounds." "And I,
Sir," said Metcalf, "would not have lost my way for a thousand."
Metcalf having thriven and saved money, bought and rode a horse of
his own. He had a great affection for the animal, and when he
called, it would immediately answer him by neighing. The most
surprising thing is that he was a good huntsman; and to follow the
hounds was one of his greatest pleasures. He was as bold a rider as
ever took the field. He trusted much, no doubt, to the sagacity of
his horse; but he himself was apparently regardless of danger. The
hunting adventures which are related of him, considering his
blindness, seem altogether marvellous. He would also run his horse
for the petty prizes or plates given at the "feasts" in the
neighbourhood, and he attended the races at York and other places,
where he made bets with considerable skill, keeping well in his
memory the winning and losing horses. After the races, he would
return to Knaresborough late at night, guiding others who but for
him could never have made out the way.
On one occasion he rode his horse in a match in Knaresborough
Forest. The ground was marked out by posts, including a circle of a
mile, and the race was three times round. Great odds were laid
against the blind man, because of his supposed inability to keep the
course. But his ingenuity was never at fault. He procured a number
of dinner-bells from the Harrogate inns and set men to ring them at
the several posts. Their sound was enough to direct him during the
race, and the blind man came in the winner! After the race was over,
a gentleman who owned a notorious runaway horse came up and offered
to lay a bet with Metcalf that he could not gallop the horse fifty
yards and stop it within two hundred. Metcalf accepted the bet, with
the condition that he might choose his ground. This was agreed to,
but there was to be neither hedge nor wall in the distance. Metcalf
forthwith proceeded to the neighbourhood of the large bog near the
Harrogate Old Spa, and having placed a person on the line in which
he proposed to ride, who was to sing a song to guide him by its
sound, he mounted and rode straight into the bog, where he had the
horse effectually stopped within the stipulated two hundred yards,
stuck up to his saddle-girths in the mire. Metcalf scrambled out and
claimed his wager; but it was with the greatest difficulty that the
horse could be extricated.
The blind man also played at bowls very successfully, receiving the
odds of a bowl extra for the deficiency of each eye. He had thus
three bowls for the other's one; and he took care to place one
friend at the jack and another midway, who, keeping up a constant
discourse with him, enabled him readily to judge of the distance. In
athletic sports, such as wrestling and boxing, he was also a great
adept; and being now a full-grown man, of great strength and
robustness, about six feet two in height, few durst try upon him the
practical jokes which cowardly persons are sometimes disposed to
play upon the blind.
Notwithstanding his mischievous tricks and youthful wildness, there
must have been something exceedingly winning about the man,
possessed, as he was, of a strong, manly, and affectionate nature;
and we are not, therefore, surprised to learn that the landlord's
daughter of 'The Granby' fairly fell in love with Blind Jack and
married him, much to the disgust of her relatives. When asked how it
was that she could marry such a man, her womanlike reply was,
"Because I could not be happy without him: his actions are so
singular, and his spirit so manly and enterprising, that I could not
help loving him." But, after all, Dolly was not so far wrong in the
choice as her parents thought her. As the result proved, Metcalf had
in him elements of success in life, which, even according to the
world's estimate, made him eventually a very "good match," and the
woman's clear sight in this case stood her in good stead.
But before this marriage was consummated, Metcalf had wandered far
and "seen" a good deal of the world, as he termed it. He travelled
on horseback to Whitby, and from thence he sailed for London, taking
with him his fiddle, by the aid of which he continued to earn enough
to maintain himself for several weeks in the metropolis. Returning
to Whitby, he sailed from thence to Newcastle to "see" some friends
there, whom he had known at Harrogate while visiting that
watering-place. He was welcomed by many families and spent an
agreeable month, afterwards visiting Sunderland, still supporting
himself by his violin playing. Then he returned to Whitby for his
horse, and rode homeward alone to Knaresborough by Pickering, Malton,
and York, over very bad roads, the greater part of which he had
never travelled before, yet without once missing his way. When he
arrived at York, it was the dead of night, and he found the city
gates at Middlethorp shut. They were of strong planks, with iron
spikes fixed on the top; but throwing his horse's bridle-rein over
one of the spikes, he climbed up, and by the help of a corner of the
wall that joined the gates, he got safely over: then opening them
from the inside, he led his horse through.
After another season at Harrogate, he made a second visit to London,
in the company of a North countryman who played the small pipes. He
was kindly entertained by Colonel Liddell, of Ravensworth Castle,
who gave him a general invitation to his house. During this visit,
which was in 1740-1, Metcalf ranged freely over the metropolis,
visiting Maidenhead and Reading, and returning by Windsor and
Hampton Court. The Harrogate season being at hand, he prepared to
proceed thither,—Colonel Liddell, who was also about setting out for
Harrogate, offering him a seat behind his coach. Metcalf thanked
him, but declined the offer, observing that he could, with great
ease, walk as far in a day as he, the Colonel, was likely to travel
in his carriage; besides, he preferred the walking. That a blind man
should undertake to walk a distance of two hundred miles over an
unknown road, in the same time that it took a gentleman to perform
the same distance in his coach, dragged by post-horses, seems almost
incredible; yet Metcalf actually arrived at Harrogate before the
Colonel, and that without hurrying by the way. The circumstance is
easily accounted for by the deplorable state of the roads, which
made travelling by foot on the whole considerably more expeditious
than travelling by coach. The story is even extant of a man with a
wooden leg being once offered a lift upon a stagecoach; but he
declined, with "Thank'ee, I can't wait; I'm in a hurry." And he
stumped on, ahead of the coach.
The account of Metcalf's journey on foot from London to Harrogate is
not without a special bearing on our subject, as illustrative of the
state of the roads at the time. He started on a Monday morning,
about an hour before the Colonel in his carriage, with his suite,
which consisted of sixteen servants on horseback. It was arranged
that they should sleep that night at Welwyn, in Hertfordshire.
Metcalf made his way to Barnet; but a little north of that town,
where the road branches off to St. Albans, he took the wrong way,
and thus made a considerable detour. Nevertheless he arrived at
Welwyn first, to the surprise of the Colonel. Next morning he set
off as before, reached Biggleswade; but there he found the river
swollen and no bridge provided to enable travellers to cross to the
further side. He made a considerable circuit, in the hope of finding
some method of crossing the stream, and was so fortunate as to fall
in with a fellow wayfarer, who led the way across some planks,
Metcalf following the sound of his feet. Arrived at the other side,
Metcalf, taking some pence from his pocket, said, "Here, my good
fellow, take that and get a pint of beer." The stranger declined,
saying he was welcome to his services. Metcalf, however, pressed
upon his guide the small reward, when the other asked, "Pray, can
you see very well?" "Not remarkably well," said Metcalf. "My
friend," said the stranger, "I do not mean to tithe you: I am the
rector of this parish; so God bless you, and I wish you a good
journey." Metcalf set forward again with the blessing, and reached
his journey's end safely, again before the Colonel. On the Saturday
after their setting out from London, the travellers reached Wetherby,
where Colonel Liddell desired to rest until the Monday; but Metcalf
proceeded on to Harrogate, thus completing the journey in six
days,—the Colonel arriving two days later.
He now renewed his musical performances at Harrogate, and was also
in considerable request at the Ripon assemblies, which were attended
by most of the families of distinction in that neighbourhood. When
the season at Harrogate was over, he retired to Knaresborough with
his young wife, and having purchased an old house, he had it pulled
down and another built on its site,—he himself getting the requisite
stones for the masonry out of the bed of the adjoining river. The
uncertainty of the income derived from musical performances led him
to think of following some more settled pursuit, now that he had a
wife to maintain as well as himself. He accordingly set up a
four-wheeled and a one-horse chaise for the public
accommodation,—Harrogate up to that time being without any vehicle
for hire. The innkeepers of the town having followed his example,
and abstracted most of his business, Metcalf next took to
fish-dealing. He bought fish at the coast, which he conveyed on
horseback to Leeds and other towns for sale. He continued
indefatigable at this trade for some time, being on the road often
for nights together; but he was at length forced to abandon it in
consequence of the inadequacy of the returns. He was therefore under
the necessity of again taking up his violin; and he was employed as
a musician in the Long Room at Harrogate, at the time of the
outbreak of the Rebellion of 1745.
The news of the rout of the Royal army at Prestonpans, and the
intended march of the Highlanders southwards, put a stop to business
as well as pleasure, and caused a general consternation throughout
the northern counties. The great bulk of the people were, however,
comparatively indifferent to the measures of defence which were
adopted; and but for the energy displayed by the country gentlemen
in raising forces in support of the established government, the
Stuarts might again have been seated on the throne of Britain. Among
the county gentlemen of York who distinguished themselves on the
occasion was William Thornton, Esq., of Thornville Royal. The county
having voted ninety thousand pounds for raising, clothing, and
maintaining a body of four thousand men, Mr. Thornton proposed, at a
public meeting held at York, that they should be embodied with the
regulars and march with the King's forces to meet the Pretender in
the field. This proposal was, however, overruled, the majority of
the meeting resolving that the men should be retained at home for
purposes merely of local defence. On this decision being come to,
Mr. Thornton determined to raise a company of volunteers at his own
expense, and to join the Royal army with such force as he could
muster. He then went abroad among his tenantry and servants, and
endeavoured to induce them to follow him, but without success.
Still determined on raising his company, Mr. Thornton next cast
about him for other means; and who should he think of in his
emergency but Blind Jack! Metcalf had often played to his family at
Christmas time, and the Squire knew him to be one of the most
popular men in the neighbourhood. He accordingly proceeded to
Knaresborough to confer with Metcalf on the subject. It was then
about the beginning of October, only a fortnight after the battle of Prestonpans. Sending for Jack to his inn, Mr. Thornton told him of
the state of affairs—that the French were coming to join the
rebels—and that if the country were allowed to fall into their
hands, no man's wife, daughter, nor sister would be safe. Jack's
loyalty was at once kindled. If no one else would join the Squire,
he would! Thus enlisted—perhaps carried away by his love of
adventure not less than by his feeling of patriotism—Metcalf
proceeded to enlist others, and in two days a hundred and forty men
were obtained, from whom Mr. Thornton drafted sixty-four, the
intended number of his company. The men were immediately drilled and
brought into a state of as much efficiency as was practicable in the
time; and when they marched off to join General Wade's army at Boroughbridge, the Captain said to them on setting out, "My lads!
you are going to form part of a ring-fence to the finest estate in
the world!" Blind Jack played a march at the head of the company,
dressed in blue and buff, and in a gold-laced hat. The Captain said
he would willingly give a hundred guineas for only one eye to put in
Jack's head: he was such a useful, spirited, handy fellow.
On arriving at Newcastle, Captain Thornton's company was united to
Pulteney's regiment, one of the weakest. The army lay for a week in
tents on the Moor. Winter had set in, and the snow lay thick on the
ground; but intelligence arriving that Prince Charles, with his
Highlanders, was proceeding southwards by way of Carlisle, General
Wade gave orders for the immediate advance of the army on Hexham, in
the hope of intercepting them by that route. They set out on their
march amidst hail and snow; and in addition to the obstruction
caused by the weather, they had to overcome the difficulties
occasioned by the badness of the roads. The men were often three or
four hours in marching a mile, the pioneers having to fill up
ditches and clear away many obstructions in making a practicable
passage for the artillery and baggage. The army was only able to
reach Ovingham, a distance of little more than ten miles, after
fifteen hours' marching. The night was bitter cold; the ground was
frozen so hard that but few of the tent-pins could be driven; and
the men lay down upon the earth amongst their straw. Metcalf, to
keep up the spirits of his company—for sleep was next to
impossible—took out his fiddle and played lively tunes whilst the
men danced round the straw, which they set on fire.
Next day the army marched for Hexham; but the rebels having already
passed southward, General Wade retraced his steps to Newcastle to
gain the high road leading to Yorkshire, whither he marched in all
haste; and for a time his army lay before Leeds on fields now
covered with streets, some of which still bear the names of
Wade-lane, Camp-road, and Camp-field, in consequence of the event. On the retreat of Prince Charles from Derby, General Wade again
proceeded to Newcastle, while the Duke of Cumberland hung upon the
rear of the rebels along their line of retreat by Penrith and
Carlisle. Wade's army proceeded by forced marches into Scotland, and
at length came up with the Highlanders at Falkirk. Metcalf continued
with Captain Thornton and his company throughout all these marchings
and counter-marchings, determined to be of service to his master if
he could, and at all events to see the end of the campaign. At the
battle of Falkirk he played his company to the field; but it was a
grossly-mismanaged battle on the part of the Royalist General, and
the result was a total defeat. Twenty of Thornton's men were made
prisoners, with the lieutenant and ensign. The Captain himself only
escaped by taking refuge in a poor woman's house in the town of
Falkirk, where he lay hidden for many days; Metcalf returning to
Edinburgh with the rest of the defeated army. [p.103]
Some of the Dragoon officers, hearing of Jack's escape, sent for him
to head-quarters at Holyrood, to question him about his Captain. One
of them took occasion to speak ironically of Thornton's men, and
asked Metcalf how he had contrived to escape. "Oh!" said Jack, "I
found it easy to follow the sound of the Dragoons' horses they made
such a clatter over the stones when flying from the Highlandmen." Another asked him how he, a blind man, durst venture upon such a
service; to which Metcalf replied, that had he possessed a pair of
good eyes, perhaps he would not have come there to risk the loss of
them by gunpowder. No more questions were asked, and Jack withdrew;
but he was not satisfied about the disappearance of Captain
Thornton, and determined on going back to Falkirk, within the
enemy's lines, to get news of him, and perhaps to rescue him, if
that were still possible.
The rest of the company were very much disheartened at the loss of
their officers and so many of their comrades, and wished Metcalf to
furnish them with the means of returning home. But he would not hear
of such a thing, and strongly encouraged them to remain until, at
all events, he had got news of the Captain. He then set out for
Prince Charles's camp. On reaching the outposts of the English army,
he was urged by the officer in command to lay aside his project,
which would certainly cost him his life. But Metcalf was not to be
dissuaded, and he was permitted to proceed, which he did in the
company of one of the rebel spies, pretending that he wished to be
engaged as a musician in the Prince's army. A woman whom they met
returning to Edinburgh from the field of Falkirk, laden with
plunder, gave Metcalf a token to her husband, who was Lord George
Murray's cook, and this secured him an access to the Prince's
quarters; but, notwithstanding a most diligent search, he could
hear nothing of his master. Unfortunately for him, a person who had
seen him at Harrogate, pointed him out as a suspicious character,
and he was seized and put in confinement for three days, after which
he was tried by court martial; but as nothing could be alleged
against him, he was acquitted, and shortly after made his escape
from the rebel camp. On reaching Edinburgh, very much to his delight
he found Captain Thornton had arrived there before him.
On the 30th of January, 1746, the Duke of Cumberland reached
Edinburgh, and put himself at the head of the Royal army, which
proceeded northward in pursuit of the Highlanders. At Aberdeen,
where the Duke gave a ball, Metcalf was found to be the only
musician in camp who could play country dances, and he played to the
company, standing on a chair, for eight hours, the Duke several
times, as he passed him, shouting out "Thornton, play up!" Next
morning the Duke sent him a present of two guineas; but as the
Captain would not allow him to receive such gifts while in his pay,
Metcalf spent the money, with his permission, in giving a treat to
the Duke's two body servants. The battle of Culloden, so disastrous
to the poor Highlanders, shortly followed; after which Captain
Thornton, Metcalf, and the Yorkshire Volunteer Company, proceeded
homewards. Metcalf's young wife had been in great fears for the
safety of her blind, fearless, and almost reckless partner; but she
received him with open arms, and his spirit of adventure being now
considerably allayed, he determined to settle quietly down to the
steady pursuit of business.
During his stay in Aberdeen, Metcalf had made himself familiar with
the articles of clothing manufactured at that place, and he came to
the conclusion that a profitable trade might be carried on by buying
them on the spot and selling them by retail to customers in
Yorkshire. He accordingly proceeded to Aberdeen in the following
spring, and bought a considerable stock of cotton and worsted
stockings, which he found he could readily dispose of on his return
home. His knowledge of horseflesh—in which he was, of course,
mainly guided by his acute sense of feeling—also proved highly
serviceable to him, and he bought considerable numbers of horses in
Yorkshire for sale in Scotland, bringing back galloways in return.
It is supposed that at the same time he carried on a profitable
contraband trade in tea and such like articles.
After this, Metcalf began a new line of business, that of common
carrier between York and Knaresborough, plying the first
stage-waggon on that road. He made the journey twice a week in
summer and once a week in winter. He also undertook the conveyance
of army baggage, most other owners of carts at that time being
afraid of soldiers, regarding them as a wild rough set, with whom it
was dangerous to have any dealings. But the blind man knew them
better, and while he drove a profitable trade in carrying their
baggage from town to town, they never did him any harm. By these
means, he very shortly succeeded in realising a considerable store
of savings, besides being able to maintain his family in
respectability and comfort.
Metcalf, however, had not yet entered upon the main business of his
life. The reader will already have observed how strong of heart and
resolute of purpose he was. During his adventurous career he had
acquired a more than ordinary share of experience of the world. Stone blind as he was from his childhood, he had not been able to
study books, but he had carefully studied men. He could read
characters with wonderful quickness, rapidly taking stock, as he
called it, of those with whom he came in contact. In his youth, as
we have seen, he could follow the hounds on horse or on foot, and
managed to be in at the death with the most expert riders. His
travels about the country as a guide to those who could see, as a
musician, soldier, chapman, fish-dealer, horse-dealer, and waggoner,
had given him a perfectly familiar acquaintance with the northern
roads. He could measure timber or hay in the stack, and rapidly
reduce their contents to feet and inches after a mental process of
his own. Withal he was endowed with an extraordinary activity and
spirit of enterprise, which, had his sight been spared him, would
probably have rendered him one of the most extraordinary men of his
age. As it was, Metcalf now became one of the greatest of its
road-makers and bridge-builders.
About the year 1765 an Act was passed empowering a turnpike-road to
be constructed between Harrogate and Boroughbridge. The business of
contractor had not yet come into existence, nor was the art of
road-making much understood; and in a remote country place such as
Knaresborough the surveyor had some difficulty in finding persons
capable of executing the necessary work. The shrewd Metcalf
discerned in the proposed enterprise the first of a series of public
roads of a similar kind throughout the northern counties, for none
knew better than he did how great was the need of them. He
determined, therefore, to enter upon this new line of business, and
offered to Mr. Ostler, the master surveyor, to construct three miles
of the proposed road between Minskip and Fearnsby. Ostler knew the
man well, and having the greatest confidence in his abilities, he
let him the contract. Metcalf sold his stage-waggons and his
interest in the carrying business between York and Knaresborough,
and at once proceeded with his new undertaking. The materials for metaling the road were to be obtained from one gravel-pit for the
whole length, and he made his arrangements on a large scale
accordingly, hauling out the ballast with unusual expedition and
economy, at the same time proceeding with the formation of the road
at all points; by which means he was enabled the first to complete
his contract, to the entire satisfaction of the surveyor and
trustees.
This was only the first of a vast number of similar projects on
which Metcalf was afterwards engaged, extending over a period of
more than thirty years. By the time that he had finished the road,
the building of a bridge at Boroughbridge was advertised, and
Metcalf sent in his tender with many others. At the same time he
frankly stated that, though he wished to undertake the work, he had
not before executed anything of the kind. His tender being on the
whole the most favourable, the trustees sent for Metcalf, and on his
appearing before them, they asked him what he knew of a bridge. He
replied that he could readily describe his plan of the one they
proposed to build, if they would be good enough to write down his
figures. "The span of the arch, 18 feet," said he "being a
semi-circle, makes 27: the arch-stones must be a foot deep, which,
if multiplied by 27, will be 486; and the basis will be 72 feet
more. This for the arch; but it will require good backing, for which
purpose there are proper stones in the old Roman wall at Aldborough,
which may be used for the purpose, if you please to give directions
to that effect." It is doubtful whether the trustees were able to
follow his rapid calculations; but they were so much struck by his
readiness and apparently complete knowledge of the work he proposed
to execute, that they gave him the contract to build the bridge; and
he completed it within the stipulated time in a satisfactory and
workmanlike manner.
He next agreed to make the mile and a half of turnpike-road between
his native town of Knaresborough and Harrogate—ground with which he
was more than ordinarily familiar. Walking one day over a portion of
the ground on which the road was to be made, while still covered
with grass, he told the workmen that he thought it differed from the
ground adjoining it, and he directed them to try for stone or gravel
underneath; and, strange to say, not many feet down, the men came
upon the stones of an old Roman causeway, from which he obtained
much valuable material for the making of his new road. At another
part of the contract there was a bog to be crossed, and the surveyor
thought it impossible to make a road over it. Metcalf assured him
that he could readily accomplish it; on which the other offered, if
he succeeded, to pay him for the straight road the price which he
would have to pay if the road were constructed round the bog. Metcalf set to work accordingly, and had a large quantity of furze
and ling laid upon the bog, over which he spread layers of gravel. The plan answered effectually, and when the materials had become
consolidated, it proved one of the best parts of the road.
It would be tedious to describe in detail the construction of the
various roads and bridges which Metcalf subsequently executed, but a
brief summary of the more important will suffice. In Yorkshire, he
made the roads between Harrogate and Harewood Bridge; between
Chapeltown and Leeds; between Broughton and Addingham; between Mill
Bridge and Halifax; between Wakefield and Dewsbury; between
Wakefield and Doncaster; between Wakefield, Huddersfield, and
Saddleworth (the Manchester road); between Standish and Thurston
Clough; between Huddersfield and Highmoor; between Huddersfield and
Halifax, and between Knaresborough and Wetherby.
In Lancashire also, Metcalf made a large extent of roads, which were
of the greatest importance in opening up the resources of that
county. Previous to their construction, almost the only means of
communication between districts was by horse-tracks and mill-roads,
of sufficient width to enable a laden horse to pass along them with
a pack of goods or a sack of corn slung across its back. Metcalf's
principal roads in Lancashire were those constructed by him between
Bury and Blackburn, with a branch to Accrington; between Bury and Haslingden; and between Haslingden and Accrington, with a branch to
Blackburn. He also made some highly important main roads connecting
Yorkshire and Lancashire with each other at many parts: as, for
instance, those between Skipton, Colne, and Burnley; and between
Docklane Head and Ashton-under-Lyne. The roads from Ashton to
Stockport and from Stockport to Mottram Langdale were also his work.
Our road-maker was also extensively employed in the same way in the
counties of Cheshire and Derby; constructing the roads between
Macclesfield and Chapel-le-Frith, between Whaley and Buxton, between
Congleton and the 'Red Bull' (entering Staffordshire), and in
various other directions. The total mileage of the turnpike-roads
thus constructed was about one hundred and eighty miles, for which
Metcalf received in all about sixty-five thousand pounds. The making
of these roads also involved the building of many bridges,
retaining-walls, and culverts. We believe it was generally admitted
of the works constructed by Metcalf that they well stood the test of
time and use; and, with a degree of justifiable pride, he was
afterwards accustomed to point to his bridges, when others were
tumbling during floods, and boast that none of his had fallen.
This extraordinary man not only made the highways which were
designed for him by other surveyors, but himself personally surveyed
and laid out many of the most important roads which he constructed,
in difficult and mountainous parts of Yorkshire and Lancashire. One
who personally knew Metcalf thus wrote of him during his lifetime:
"With the assistance only of a long staff, I have several times met
this man traversing the roads, ascending steep and rugged heights,
exploring valleys and investigating their several extents, forms,
and situations, so as to answer his designs in the best manner. The
plans which he makes, and the estimates he prepares, are done in a
method peculiar to himself, and of which he cannot well convey the
meaning to others. His abilities in this respect are, nevertheless,
so great that he finds constant employment. Most of the roads over
the Peak in Derbyshire have been altered by his directions,
particularly those in the vicinity of Buxton; and he is at this time
constructing a new one betwixt Wilmslow and Congleton, to open a
communication with the great London road, without being obliged to
pass over the mountains. I have met this blind projector while
engaged in making his survey. He was alone as usual, and, amongst
other conversation, I made some inquiries respecting this new road. It was really astonishing to hear with what accuracy he described
its course and the nature of the different soils through which it
was conducted. Having mentioned to him a boggy piece of ground it
passed through, he observed that 'that was the only place he had
doubts concerning, and that he was apprehensive they had, contrary
to his directions, been too sparing of their materials.'" [p.114]
Metcalf's skill in constructing his roads over boggy ground was very
great and the following may be cited as an instance. When the
high-road from Huddersfield to Manchester was determined on, he
agreed to make it at so much a rood, though at that time the line
had not been marked out. When this was done, Metcalf, to his dismay,
found that the surveyor had laid it out across some deep marshy
ground on Pule and Standish Commons. On this he expostulated with
the trustees, alleging the much greater expense that he must
necessarily incur in carrying out the work after their surveyor's
plan. They told him, however, that if he succeeded in making a
complete road to their satisfaction, he should not be a loser; but
they pointed out that, according to their surveyor's views, it would
be requisite for him to dig out the bog until he came to a solid
bottom. Metcalf, on making his calculations, found that in that case
he would have to dig a trench some nine feet deep and fourteen yards
broad on the average, making about two hundred and ninety-four solid
yards of bog in every rood, to be excavated and carried away. This,
he naturally conceived, would have proved both tedious as well as
costly, and, after all, the road would in wet weather have been no
better than a broad ditch, and in winter liable to be blocked up
with snow. He strongly represented this view to the trustees as well
as the surveyor, but they were immovable. It was, therefore,
necessary for him to surmount the difficulty in some other way,
though he remained firm in his resolution not to adopt the plan
proposed by the surveyor. After much cogitation he appeared again
before the trustees, and made this proposal to them: that he should
make the road across the marshes after his own plan, and then, if it
should be found not to answer, he would be at the expense of making
it over again after the surveyor's proposed method. This was agreed
to; and as he had undertaken to make nine miles of the road within
ten months, he immediately set to work with all despatch.
Nearly four hundred men were employed upon the work at six different
points, and their first operation was to cut a deep ditch along
either side of the intended road, and throw the excavated stuff
inwards so as to raise it to a circular form. His greatest
difficulty was in getting the stones laid to make the drains, there
being no firm footing for a horse in the more boggy places. The
Yorkshire clothiers, who passed that way to Huddersfield market—by
no means a soft-spoken race—ridiculed Metcalf's proceedings, and
declared that he and his men would some day have to be dragged out
of the bog by the hair of their heads! Undeterred, however, by
sarcasm, he persistently pursued his plan of making the road
practicable for laden vehicles but he strictly enjoined his men for
the present to keep his manner of proceeding a secret.
His plan was this. He ordered heather and ling to be pulled from the
adjacent ground, and after binding it together in little round
bundles, which could be grasped with the hand, these bundles were
placed close together in rows in the direction of the line of road,
after which other similar bundles were placed transversely over
them; and when all had been pressed well down, stone and gravel were
led on in broad-wheeled waggons, and spread over the bundles, so as
to make a firm and level way. When the first load was brought and
laid on, and the horses reached the firm ground again in safety,
loud cheers were set up by the persons who had assembled in the
expectation of seeing both horses and waggons disappear in the bog. The whole length was finished in like manner, and it proved one of
the best, and even the driest, parts of the road, standing in very
little need of repair for nearly twelve years after its
construction. The plan adopted by Metcalf, we need scarcely point
out, was precisely similar to that afterwards adopted by George
Stephenson, under like circumstances, when constructing the railway
across Chat Moss. It consisted simply in a large extension of the
bearing surface, by which, in fact, the road was made to float upon
the surface of the bog; and the ingenuity of the expedient proved
the practical shrewdness and mother-wit of the blind Metcalf, as it
afterwards illustrated the promptitude as well as skill of the
clear-sighted George Stephenson.
Metcalf was upwards of seventy years old before he left off
road-making. He was still hale and hearty, wonderfully active for so
old a man, and always full of enterprise. Occupation was absolutely
necessary for his comfort, and even to the last day of his life he
could not bear to be idle. While engaged on road-making in Cheshire,
he brought his wife to Stockport for a time, and there she died,
after thirty-nine years of happy married life. One of Metcalf's
daughters became married to a person engaged in the cotton business
at Stockport, and, as that trade was then very brisk, Metcalf
himself commenced it in a small way. He began with six
spinning-jennies and a carding-engine, to which he afterwards added
looms for weaving calicoes, jeans, and velveteens. But trade was
fickle, and finding that he could not sell his yarns except at a
loss, he made over his jennies to his son-in-law, and again went on
with his road-making. The last line which he constructed was one of
the most difficult he had ever undertaken,--that between Haslingden
and Accrington, with a branch road to Bury. Numerous canals being
under construction at the same time, employment was abundant and
wages rose, so that though he honourably fulfilled his contract, and
was paid for it the sum of £3500, he found himself a loser of
exactly £40 after two years' labour and anxiety. He completed the
road in 1792, when he was seventy-five years of age, after which he
retired to his farm at Spofforth, near Wetherby, where for some
years longer he continued to do a little business in his old line,
buying and selling hay and standing wood, and superintending the
operations of his little farm. During the later years of his career
he occupied himself in dictating to an amanuensis an account of the
incidents in his remarkable life, and finally, in the year 1810,
this strong-hearted and resolute man—his life's work over—laid down
his staff and peacefully departed in the ninety-third year of his
age; leaving behind him four children, twenty grand-children, and
ninety great grand-children.
The roads constructed by Metcalf and others had the effect of
greatly improving the communications of Yorkshire and Lancashire,
and opening up those counties to the trade then flowing into them
from all directions. But the administration of the highways and
turnpikes being entirely local, their good or bad management
depending upon the public spirit and enterprise of the gentlemen of
the locality, it frequently happened that while the roads of one
county were exceedingly good, those of the adjoining county were
altogether execrable.
Even in the immediate vicinity of the metropolis the Surrey roads
remained comparatively unimproved. Those through the interior of
Kent were wretched. When Mr. Rennie, the engineer, was engaged in
surveying the Weald with a view to the cutting of a canal through it
in 1802, he found the country almost destitute of practicable roads,
though so near to the metropolis on the one hand and to the
sea-coast on the other. The interior of the county was then
comparatively untraversed, except by bands of smugglers, who kept
the inhabitants in a state of constant terror. In an agricultural
report on the county of Northampton as late as the year 1813, it was
stated that the only way of getting along some of the main lines of
road in rainy weather, was by swimming!
In the neighbourhood of the city of Lincoln the communications were
little better, and there still stands upon what is called Lincoln
Heath—though a heath no longer—a curious memorial of the past in the
shape of Dunstan Pillar, a column seventy feet high, erected about
the middle of last century in the midst of the then dreary, barren
waste, for the purpose of serving as a mark to wayfarers by day and
a beacon to them by night. [p.119] At that time the Heath was not
only uncultivated, but it was also unprovided with a road across it. When the late Lady Robert Manners visited Lincoln from her residence
at Bloxholm, she was accustomed to send forward a groom to examine
some track, that on his return he might be able to report one that
was practicable. Travellers frequently lost themselves upon this
heath. Thus a
family, returning from a ball at Lincoln, strayed from
the track twice in one night, and they were obliged to remain there
until morning. All this is now changed, and Lincoln Heath has become
covered with excellent roads and thriving farmsteads. "This Dunstan
Pillar," says Mr. Pusey, in his review of the agriculture of
Lincolnshire, in 1843, "lighted up no longer time ago for so
singular a purpose, did appear to me a striking witness of the
spirit of industry which, in our own days, has reared the thriving
homesteads around it, and spread a mantle of teeming vegetation to
its very base. And it was certainly surprising to discover at once
the finest farming I had ever seen and the only land lighthouse ever
raised. [p.121-1] Now that the pillar has ceased to cheer the
wayfarer, it may serve as a beacon to encourage other landowners in
converting their dreary moors into similar scenes of thriving
industry." [p.121-2]
When the improvement of the high roads of the country fairly set in,
the progress made was very rapid. This was greatly stimulated by the
important inventions of tools, machines, and engines, made towards
the close of last century, the products of which—more especially of
the steam-engine and spinning-machine—so largely increased the
wealth of the nation. Manufactures, commerce, and shipping, made
unprecedented strides; life became more active; persons and
commodities circulated more rapidly; every improvement in the
internal communications being followed by an increase of ease,
rapidity, and economy in locomotion. Turnpike and post roads were
speedily extended all over the country, and even the rugged mountain
districts of North Wales and the Scotch Highlands became as
accessible as any English county. The riding postman was superseded
by the smartly appointed mail-coach, performing its journeys with
remarkable regularity at the average speed of ten miles an hour. Slow stage-coaches gave place to fast ones, splendidly horsed and
"tooled," until travelling by road in England was pronounced almost
perfect.
But all this was not enough. The roads and canals, numerous and
perfect though they might be, were found altogether inadequate to
the accommodation of the traffic of the country, which had
increased, at a constantly accelerating ratio, with the increased
application of steam power to the purposes of productive industry. At length steam itself was applied to remedy the inconveniences
which it had caused; the locomotive engine was invented, and
travelling by railway became generally adopted. The effect of these
several improvements in the means of locomotion, has been to greatly
increase the public activity, and to promote the general comfort and
well-being. They have tended to bring the country and the town much
closer together; and, by annihilating distance as measured by time,
to make the whole kingdom as one great city. What the personal
blessings of improved communication have been, no one has described
so well as the witty and sensible Sydney Smith:—
"It is of some importance," he wrote, "at what period a man is
born. A young man alive at this period hardly knows to what
improvement of human life he has been introduced; and I would bring
before his notice the changes which have taken place in England
since I began to breathe the breath of life, a period amounting to
over eighty years. Gas was unknown: I groped about the streets of
London in the all but utter darkness of a twinkling oil lamp, under
the protection of watchmen in their grand climacteric, and exposed
to every species of degradation and insult. I have been nine hours
in sailing from Dover to Calais, before the invention of steam. It
took me nine hours to go from Taunton to Bath, before the invention
of railroads; and I now go in six hours from Taunton to London! In
going from Taunton to Bath, I suffered between 10,000 to 12,000
severe contusions, before stone-breaking Macadam was born. . . . As
the basket of stagecoaches in which luggage was then carried had no
springs, your clothes were rubbed all to pieces; and, even in the
best society, one-third of the gentlemen at least were always drunk.
. . I paid £15 in a single year for repairs of carriage-springs on
the pavement of London; and I now glide without noise or fracture on
wooden pavement. I can walk, by the assistance of the police, from
one end of London to the other without molestation; or, if tired,
get into a cheap and active cab, instead of those cottages on wheels
which the hackney coaches were at the beginning of my life. . . .
Whatever miseries I suffered, there was no post to whisk my
complaints for a single penny to the remotest corner of the empire;
and yet, in spite of all these privations, I lived on quietly, and
am now ashamed that I was not more discontented, and utterly
surprised that all these changes and inventions did not occur two
centuries ago."
With the history of these great improvements is also mixed up the
story of human labour and genius, and of the patience and
perseverance displayed in carrying them out. Probably one of the
best illustrations of character in connection with the development
of the inventions of the last century, is to be found in the life of
Thomas Telford, the greatest and most scientific road-maker of his
day, to which we proceed to direct the attention of the reader.
――――♦――――
LIFE OF THOMAS TELFORD.
CHAPTER I.
ESKDALE.
THOMAS
TELFORD was born in one
of the most solitary nooks of the narrow valley of the Esk, in the
eastern part of the county of Dumfries, in Scotland. Eskdale
runs north and south, its lower end having been in former times the
western march of the Scottish border. Near the entrance to the
dale is a tall column erected on Langholm Hill, some twelve miles to
the north of the Gretna Green station of the Caledonian
Railway,—which many travellers to and from Scotland may have
observed,—a monument to the late Sir John Malcolm, Governor of
Bombay, one of the distinguished natives of the district. It
looks far over the English borderlands, which stretch away towards
the south, and marks the entrance to the mountainous parts of the
dale, which lie to the north. From that point upwards the
valley gradually contracts, the road winding along the river's
banks, in some places high above the stream, which rushes swiftly
over the rocky bed below.
A few miles upward from the lower end of Eskdale
lies the little capital of the district, the town of Langholm; and
there, in the market-place, stands another monument to the virtues
of the Malcolm family in the statue erected to the memory of Admiral
Sir Pulteney Malcolm, a distinguished naval officer. Above
Langholm, the country becomes more hilly and moorland. In many
places only a narrow strip of holm land by the river's side is left
available for cultivation; until at length the dale contracts so
much that the hills descend to the very road, and there are only to
be seen their steep heathery sides sloping up towards the sky on
either hand, and a narrow stream plashing and winding along the
bottom of the valley among the rocks at their feet.
From this brief description of the character of Eskdale
scenery, it may readily be supposed that the district is very thinly
peopled, and that it never could have been capable of supporting a
large number of inhabitants. Indeed, previous to the union of
the crowns of England and Scotland, the principal branch of industry
that existed in the Dale was of a lawless kind. The people
living on the two sides of the border looked upon each other's
cattle as their own, provided only they had the strength to "lift"
them. They were, in truth, even during the time of peace, a
kind of outcasts, against whom the united powers of England and
Scotland were often employed. On the Scotch side of the Esk
were the Johnstones and Armstrongs, and on the English the Graemes
of Netherby; both clans being alike wild and lawless. It was a
popular border saying that "Elliots and Armstrongs ride thieves a';"
and an old historian says of the Graemes that "they were all stark
moss-troopers and arrant thieves; to England as well as Scotland
outlawed." The neighbouring chiefs were no better; Scott of
Buccleugh, from whom the modern Duke is descended, and Scott of
Harden, the ancestor of the novelist, being both renowned
freebooters.
There stands at this day on the banks of the Esk, only a few
miles from the English border, the ruin of an old fortalice, called
Gilnockie Tower, in a situation which in point of natural beauty is
scarcely equalled even in Scotland. It was the stronghold of a
chief popularly known in his day as Johnnie Armstrong. [p.129]
He was a mighty freebooter in the time of James V., and the terror
of his name is said to have extended as far as Newcastle-upon-Tyne,
between which town and his castle on the Esk he was accustomed to
levy blackmail, or "protection and forbearance money," as it was
called. The King, however, determining to put down by the
strong hand the depredations of the march men, made a sudden
expedition along the borders; and Johnnie Armstrong having been so
ill-advised as to make his appearance with his followers at a place
called Carlenrig, in Etterick Forest, between Hawick and Langholm,
James ordered him to instant execution. Had Johnnie Armstrong,
like the Scotts and Kers and Johnstones of like calling, been
imprisoned beforehand, he might possibly have lived to found a
British peerage; but as it was, the genius of the Armstrong dynasty
was for a time extinguished, only, however, to reappear, after the
lapse of a few centuries, in the person of the eminent engineer of
Newcastle-upon-Tyne, the inventor of the Armstrong gun.
The two centuries and a half which have elapsed since then
have indeed seen extraordinary changes. [p.130]
The energy which the old borderers threw into their feuds has not
become extinct, but survives under more benignant aspects,
exhibiting itself in efforts to enlighten, fertilise, and enrich the
country which their wasteful ardour before did so much to disturb
and impoverish. The heads of the Buccleugh and Elliot family
now sit in the British House of Lords. The descendant of Scott
of Harden has achieved a world-wide reputation as a poet and
novelist; and the late Sir James Graham, the representative of the
Graemes of Netherby, on the English side of the border, was one of
the most venerable and respected of British statesmen. The
border men, who used to make such furious raids and forays, have now
come to regard each other, across the imaginary line which divides
them, as friends and neighbours; and they meet as competitors for
victory only at agricultural meetings, where they strive to win
prizes for the biggest turnips or the most effective
reaping-machines; while the men who followed their Johnstone or
Armstrong chiefs as prickers or hobilers to the fray have, like
Telford, crossed the border with powers of road-making and
bridge-building which have proved a source of increased civilisation
and well-being to the population of the entire United Kingdom.
The hamlet of Westerkirk, with its parish church and school,
lies in a narrow part of the valley, a few miles above Langholm.
Westerkirk parish is long and narrow, its boundaries being the
hilltops on either side of the dale. It is about seven miles
long and two broad, with a population of about 600 persons of all
ages. Yet this number is quite as much as the district is able
to support, as is proved by its remaining as nearly as possible
stationary from one generation to another. [p.132]
But what becomes of the natural increase of families? "They
swarm off!" was the explanation given to us by a native of the
valley. "If they remained at home," said he, "we should all be
sunk in poverty, scrambling with each other amongst these hills for
a bare living. But our peasantry have a spirit above that:
they will not consent to sink; they look up; and our parish schools
give them a power of making their way in the world, each man for
himself. So they swarm off—some to America, some to Australia,
some to India, and some, like Telford, work their way across the
border and up to London."
One would scarcely have expected to find the birthplace of
the builder of the Menai Bridge and other great national works in so
obscure a corner of the kingdom. Possibly it may already have
struck the reader with surprise, that not only were all the early
engineers self-taught in their profession, but were brought up
mostly in remote country places, far from the active life of great
towns and cities. But genius is of no locality, and springs
alike from the farmhouse, the peasant's hut, or the herd's shieling.
Strange, indeed, it is that the men who have built our bridges,
docks, lighthouses, canals, and railways, should nearly all have
been country-bred boys: Edwards and Brindley, the sons of small
farmers; Smeaton, brought up in his father's country house at
Austhorpe; Rennie, the son of a farmer and freeholder; and
Stephenson, reared in a colliery village, an engine-tenter's son.
But Telford, even more than any of these, was a purely country-bred
boy, and was born and brought up in a valley so secluded that it
could not even boast of a cluster of houses of the dimensions of a
village.
Telford's father was a herd on the sheep-farm of Glendinning.
The farm consists of green hills, lying along the valley of the
Meggat, a little burn, which descends from the moorlands on the
east, and falls into the Esk near the hamlet of Westerkirk.
John Telford's cottage was little better than a shieling, consisting
of four mud walls, spanned by a thatched roof. It stood upon a
knoll near the lower end of a gully worn in the hillside by the
torrents of many winters. The ground stretches away from it in
a long sweeping slope up to the sky, and is green to the top, except
where the bare grey rocks in some places crop out to the day.
From the knoll may be seen miles on miles of hills up and down the
valley, winding in and out, sometimes branching off into smaller
glens, each with its gurgling rivulet of peaty-brown water flowing
down from the mosses above. Only a narrow strip of arable land
is here and there visible along the bottom of the dale, all above
being sheep-pasture, moors, and rocks. At Glendinning you seem
to have got almost to the world's end. There the road ceases,
and above it stretch trackless moors, the solitude of which is
broken only by the whimpling sound of the burns on their way to the
valley below, the hum of bees gathering honey among the heather, the
whirr of a blackcock on the wing, the plaintive cry of the ewes at
lambing-time, or the sharp bark of the shepherd's dog gathering the
flock together for the fauld.
In this cottage on the knoll Thomas Telford was born on the
9th of August, 1757, and before the year was out he was already an
orphan. The shepherd, his father, died in the month of
November, and was buried in Westerkirk churchyard, leaving behind
him his widow and her only child altogether unprovided for. We
may here mention that one of the first things which that child did,
when he had grown up to manhood and could "cut a headstone," was to
erect one with the following inscription, hewn and lettered by
himself, over his father's grave
"IN MEMORY OF
JOHN TELFORD,
WHO AFTER LIVING 33 YEARS
AN UNBLAMEABLE SHEPHERD,
DIED AT GLENDINNING,
NOVEMBER, 1757,"
a simple but poetical epitaph, which Wordsworth himself might have
written.
The widow had a long and hard struggle with the world before
her; but she encountered it bravely. She had her boy to work
for, and, destitute though she was, she had him to educate.
She was helped, as the poor so often are, by those of her own
condition, and there is no sense of degradation in receiving such
help. One of the risks of benevolence is its tendency to lower
the recipient to the condition of an alms-taker. Doles from
poor's-boxes have this enfeebling effect; but a poor neighbour
giving a destitute widow a help in her time of need is felt to be a
friendly act, and is alike elevating to the character of both.
Though misery such as is witnessed in large town quite unknown in
the valley, there was poverty; but it was honest as well as hopeful,
and none felt ashamed of it. The farmers of the dale were very
primitive [p.136] in their
manners and habits, and being a warm-hearted, though by no means a
demonstrative race, they were kind to the widow and her fatherless
boy. They took him by turns to live with them at their houses,
and gave his mother occasional employment. In summer she
milked the ewes and made hay, and in harvest she went a-shearing;
contriving not only to live, but to be cheerful.
The house to which the widow and her son removed at the
Whitsuntide following the death of her husband was at a place called
The Crooks, about midway between Glendinning and Westerkirk.
It was a thatched cot-house, with two ends; in one of which lived
Janet Telford (more commonly known by her own name of Janet Jackson)
and her son Tom, and in the other her neighbour Elliot; one door
being common to both.
Young Telford grew up a healthy boy, and he was so full of
fun and humour that he became known in the valley by the name of
"Laughing Tam." When he was old enough to herd sheep he went
to live with a relative, a shepherd like his father, and he spent
most of his time with him in summer on the hill-side amidst the
silence of nature. In winter he lived with one or other of the
neighbouring farmers. He herded their cows or ran errands,
receiving for recompense his meat, a pair of stockings, and five
shillings a year for clogs. These were his first wages, and as
he grew older they were gradually increased.
But Tom must now be put to school, and, happily, small though
the parish of Westerkirk was, it possessed the advantage of that
admirable institution, the parish school. The legal provision
made at an early period for the education of the people in Scotland,
proved one of their greatest boons. By imparting the rudiments
of knowledge to all, the parish schools of the country placed the
children of the peasantry on a more equal footing with the children
of the rich; and to that extent redressed the inequalities of
fortune. To start a poor boy on the road of life without
instruction, is like starting one on a race with his eyes bandaged
or his leg tied up. Compared with the educated son of the rich
man, the former has but little chance of sighting the winning post.
To our orphan boy the merely elementary teaching provided at
the parish school of Westerkirk was an immense boon. To master
this was the first step of the ladder he was afterwards to mount:
his own industry, energy, and ability must do the rest. To
school accordingly he went, still working a-field or herding cattle
during the summer months. Perhaps his own "penny fee" helped
to pay the teacher's hire; but it is supposed that his cousin
Jackson defrayed the principal part of the expense of his
instruction. It was not much that he learnt; but in acquiring
the arts of reading, writing, and figures, he learnt the beginnings
of a great deal.
Apart from the question of learning, there was another
manifest advantage to the poor boy in mixing freely at the parish
school with the sons of the neighbouring farmers and proprietors.
Such intercourse has an influence upon a youth's temper, manners,
and tastes, which is quite as important in the education of
character as the lessons of the master himself; and Telford often,
in after life, referred with pleasure to the benefits which he had
derived from his early school friendships. Among those to whom
he was accustomed to look back with most pride, were the two elder
brothers of the Malcolm family, both of whom rose to high rank in
the service of their country; William Telford, a youth of great
promise, a naval surgeon, who died young; and the brothers William
and Andrew Little, the former of whom settled down as a farmer in
Eskdale, and the latter, a surgeon, lost his eyesight when on
service off the coast of Africa. Andrew Little afterwards
established himself as a teacher at Langholm, where he educated,
amongst others, General Sir Charles Pasley, Dr. Irving, the
Custodies of the Advocate's Library at Edinburgh, and others known
to fame beyond the bounds of their native valley. Well might
Telford say, when an old man, full of years and honours, on sitting
down to write his autobiography, "I still recollect with pride and
pleasure my native parish of Westerkirk, on the banks of the Esk,
where I was born." |