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CHAPTER VII.
Hagley parish church—The sepulchral marbles of the Lytteltons—Epitaph on the Lady Lucy—The phrenological doctrine of
hereditary transmission; unsupported by history, save in a way in which
history can be made to support anything—Thomas Lord Lyttelton; his moral
character a strange contrast to that of his father—The elder Lyttelton;
his deathbed—Abberrations of the younger Lord—Strange ghost story;
curious modes of accounting for it—Return to Stourbridge—Late
Drive—Hales Owen.
THE parish church of Hagley, an antique Gothic
building of small size, much hidden in wood, lies at the foot of the hill,
within a few hundred yards of the mansion-house. It was erected in the
remote past, long ere the surrounding pleasure grounds had any existence;
but it has now come to be as thoroughly enclosed in them as the urns and
obelisks of the rising ground above, and forms as picturesque an object as
any urn or
obelisk among them all. There is, however, a vast difference between jest
and earnest; and the bona fide tomb-stones of the building inscribed
with names of the dead, and its dark walls and pointed roof reared with
direct reference to a life to which the present is but the brief
vestibule, do not quite harmonize with temples of Theseus and the Muses,
or political columns erected in honour of forgotten Princes of Wales, who
quarrelled with their fathers, and were cherished, in consequence, by the
Opposition. As I came upon it unawares, and saw it emerge from its dense
thicket of trees, I felt as if, at an Egyptian feast, I had unwittingly
brushed off the veil from the admonitory skeleton. The door lay open—a few workmen were engaged in paving a portion of
the floor, and repairing some breaches in the vault; and as I entered,
one of their number was employed in shovelling, some five or six feet
under the pavement, among the
dust of the Lytteltons. The trees outside render the place exceedingly
gloomy. "At Hagley," the too celebrated Thomas Lord Lyttelton is made to
say, in the posthumous volume of Letters which bears his name, "there is
a temple of Theseus, commonly called by the gardener the temple of Perseus,
which stares you in the face wherever you go; while the temple of God,
commonly called by the gardener the parish church, is so industriously hid
by trees from without, that the pious matron can hardly read her
prayer-book within." [6] A brown twilight still lingers in the place: the
lettered marbles along the walls glisten cold and sad in the gloom, as if
invested by the dun Cimmerian atmosphere described by the old poet as
brooding over the land of the dead
The dusky coasts
Peopled by shoals of visionary ghosts.
|
One straggling ray of sunshine, coloured by the stained glass of a narrow
window, and dimmed yet more by the motty dust-reek raised by the workmen,
fell on a small oblong tablet, the plainest and least considerable in the
building, and, by lighting up its inscription of five short lines, gave to
it, by one of those fortuitous happinesses in which so much of the poetry
of common life consists, the prominence which it deserves. It briefly
intimates that it was placed there, in its naked unadornedness, "at the
particular desire of the Right Honourable George Lord Lyttelton, who died
August 22, 1773, aged sixty-four." The poet had willed, like another
titled poet of less unclouded reputation, that his "epitaph should be his
name alone." Beside the plain slab—so near that they almost touch—there
is a marble of great elegance—the monument of the Lady Lucy. It shows
that she
pre-deceased her husband—dying at the early age of twenty-nine—nearly
thirty years. Her epitaph, like the Monody, must be familiar to most of my
readers; but for the especial benefit of the class whose reading may have
lain rather among the poets of the present than of the past century, I
give it as transcribed from the marble.
Made to engage all hearts and charm all eyes,
Though meek,
magnanimous—though witty, wise;
Polite as she in courts had ever been,
Yet good as she the world had never seen;
The noble fire of an exalted
mind,
With gentle female tenderness combined;
Her speech was the melodious voice
of love,
Her song the warbling of the vernal grove;
Her eloquence was
sweeter than her song,
Soft as her heart, and as her reason strong:
Her
form each beauty of the mind expressed;
Her mind was virtue by the graces dressed.
|
England, in the eighteenth century, saw few better men or better women
than Lord Lyttelton and his lady; and it does seem a curious enough fact,
that their only son, a boy of many hopes and many advantages, and who
possessed quick parts and a vigorous intellect, should have proved,
notwithstanding, one of the most flagitious personages of his age. The
first Lord Lyttelton was not more conspicuous for his genius and his
virtues than the second Lord Lyttelton for his talents and his vices.
There are many who, though they do not subscribe to the creed of the
phrenologist, are yet unconsciously influenced by its doctrines; and
never, perhaps, was the phrenological belief more general than now, that
the human race, like some of the inferior races, is greatly dependent for
the development of what is best in it, on what I shall venture to term
purity of breed. It has become a sort of axiom, that well-dispositioned
intellectual parents produce a well-dispositioned intellectual offspring;
and of course, as human history is various enough, when partially culled,
to furnish evidence in support of anything, there have been instances
adduced in proof of the position, which it would take a long time to
enumerate. But were exactly the opposite
belief held, the same various history would be found to furnish at least
as many evidences in support of it as of the other. The human race, so far
at least as the mental and the moral are concerned, comes very doubtfully,
if at all, under the law of the inferior natures. David Hume, better
acquainted with history than most men, gives what seems to be the true
state of the case. "The races of animals," he says, "never degenerate
when carefully attended to; and horses in particular always show their
blood in their shape, spirit, and swiftness; but a coxcomb may beget a
philosopher, as a man of virtue may leave a worthless progeny." It is not
uninstructive to observe how strongly the philosophy of the remark is
borne out by the facts of Hume's own History. The mean, pusillanimous,
foolish John was the son of the wise, dauntless Henry the Second, and the
brother of the magnanimous Richard Cœur de Lion. His immediate
descendant and successor, nearly as weak, though somewhat more honest than
himself, was the father of the fearless, politic, unscrupulous Edward the
First; and he of the imbecile Edward the Second; and he in turn, of the
brave, sagacious Edward the Third; and then comes one of those cases which
the phrenologist picks out from the general mass, and threads together, as
with a string: the heroic Edward the Third was the father of the heroic
Black Prince. And thus the record runs on, bearing from beginning to end
the same character; save that as common men are vastly less rare, as the
words imply, than uncommon ones, it is inevitable that instances of the
ordinary producing should greatly predominate over instances of an
opposite cast. We see, however, a brutal Henry the Eighth succeeded by his
son, a just and gentle Edward the Sixth; and him by his bigoted, weak-minded sister, the bloody Mary; and her by his other sister, the
shrewd, politic Elizabeth. But in no history is this independence of man's
mental and moral nature of the animal laws of transmissions better shown
than in the most ancient and authentic of all. The two first brothers the
world ever saw—children of the same father and mother—were persons of diametrically
opposite characters; a similar diversity obtained in the families of Noah
and of Jacob: the devout Eli was the father of profligate children; and
Solomon, the wise son of a great monarch, a great warrior, and a great
author—he who, according to Cowley, "from best of poets best of kings
did grow"—had much unscrupulous coxcombry and mediocre commonplace among
his brethren, and an ill-advised simpleton for his son.
The story of the young Lyttelton—better known half a century ago than it
is now—has not a few curious points about it. He was one of three
children, two of them girls, apostrophized by the bereaved poet in the
Monody:
Sweet babes, who, like the little playful fawns,
Were wont to trip along
these verdant lawns
By your delightful mother's side,
Who now your infant steps shall guide?
Ah! where is now the hand whose
tender care
To every virtue would have formed your youth,
And strewed with
flowers the thorny ways of truth!
O loss beyond repair!
O wretched father, left alone
To weep their dire misfortune and thy own!
How shall thy weakened mind oppressed with woe,
And drooping o'er thy
Lucy's grave,
Perform the duties that you doubly owe,
Now she, alas! is gone,
From folly and from vice their helpless age to save!
|
One of the two female children died in infancy; the other lived to
contract an advantageous and happy marriage with a very amiable nobleman,
and to soothe the dying bed of her father. The boy gave early promise of
fine parts and an energetic disposition. He learned almost in childhood to
appreciate Milton, mastered his tasks with scarce an effort, spoke and
wrote with fluent elegance, and was singularly happy in repartee. It was
early seen, however, that his nature was based on a substratum of profound
selfishness, and that an uneasy vanity rendered him intensely jealous of
all in immediate contact with him, whose claims to admiration or respect
he regarded as overtopping his own. All of whom he was jealous it was his disposition to dislike
and oppose: his insane envy made war upon them in behalf of self; and,
unfortunately, it was his excellent father—a man possessed of one of the
highest and most unsullied reputations of the day—whom he regarded as most his rival. Had the first Lord Lyttleton
been a worse man, the second Lord would possibly have been a better one;
for in the moral and the religious—in all that related to the conduct of
life and the government of the passions—he seemed to regard his father as
a sort of reverse standard by which to regulate himself on a principle of
contrariety. The elder Lord had produced a treatise on the
"Conversion of St. Paul," which continues to hold a prominent place among
our works of evidence, and to which, says Johnson, "infidelity has never
been able to fabricate a specious answer." It was answered, however,
after a sort, by a sceptical foreigner, Claude Annet, whose work
the younger Lyttelton made it his business diligently to study, and which,
as a piece of composition and argument, he professed greatly to prefer to
his father's. The older Lyttelton had written verses which gave him
a place among the British poets, and which contain, as he himself has
characterized those of Thomson—
Not one immoral, one corrupted thought—
One line which, dying, he could wish to blot.
|
The younger Lyttelton wrote verses also; but his, though not quite without
merit, had to be banished society, like a leper freckled with infection,
and they have since perished apart. The elder Lyttelton wrote Dialogues of
the Dead; so did the younger; but his dialogues were too blasphemously
profane to be given, in a not very zealous age, to the public; and we can
but predict their character from their names. The speakers in one were, "King David and Cæsar Borgia;" and in another,
"Socrates and Jesus Christ." He gave a loose to his passions, till not a
woman of reputation would dare be seen in his company, or permit him, when
he waited on her—heir-apparent as
he was to a fine estate and a fair title—to do more than leave his card. His father, in the hope of awakening him to higher pursuits and a nobler
ambition, exerted his influence in getting him returned to Parliament; and
he made his début in a brilliant speech which greatly excited the hopes
of the veteran senator and his friends, and was complimented in the House
by the Opposition, as fraught with the "hereditary ability of the Lytteltons." He subsequently lost his seat, however, in consequence of
some irregularities connected with his election, and returned full swing
to the gratification of the grosser propensities of his nature. At length,
when shunned by high and low, even in the neighbourhood of Hagley, he was
sent to hide his disgrace in an obscure retreat on the Continent.
Meanwhile, the elder Lyttelton was fast breaking up. There was nothing in
the nature of his illness, says his physician, in an interesting account
of his last moments, to alarm the fears of his friends; but there is a
malady of the affections darkly hinted at in the narrative, which had
broken his rest and prostrated his strength, and which medicine could not
reach. It is sad enough to reflect that he himself had been one of the
best of sons. The letter is still extant which his agèd father addressed
to him on the publication of his treatise on the "Conversion of St.
Paul." After some judicious commendation of the cogency of the arguments
and the excellence of the style, the old man goes on to say, "May the
King of kings, whose glorious cause you have so well defended, reward your
pious labours, and grant that I may be found worthy, through the merits of
Jesus Christ, to be an eye-witness of that happiness which I doubt not He
will bountifully bestow upon you. In the meantime, I shall never cease
glorifying God for having endowed you with such useful talents, and giving
me so good a son." And here was the son, in whose behalf this affecting
prayer had been breathed, dying broken-hearted, a victim to paternal
solicitude and sorrow! But did the history of the
species furnish us with no such instances, we should possess one argument
fewer than in the existing state of things, for a scheme of final
retribution, through which every unredressed wrong shall be righted, and
every unsettled account receive its appropriate adjustment. Junius, a
writer who never praised willingly, had just decided, with reference to
his Lordship's long political career, that "the integrity and judgment of
Lord Lyttelton were unquestionable;" but the subject of the eulogy
was passing to the tribunal of a higher Judge. His hopes of immortality
rested solely on the revealed basis; and yet it did yield him cause of
gratitude on his deathbed, that he had been enabled throughout the
probationary course, now at its close, to maintain the character of an
honest man. "In politics and in public life," he said to his physician,
shortly ere his departure, "I have made public good the rule of my conduct. I never gave
counsels which I did not at the time think the best. I have seen that I
was sometimes in the wrong; but I did not err designedly. I have
endeavoured in private life to do all the good in my power; and never for
a moment could indulge malicious or unjust designs against any person
whatsoever." And so the first Lord Lyttelton slept with his fathers; and
Thomas, the second Lord, succeeded him.
He soon attained, in his hereditary seat in the Upper House, to no small
consequence as a Parliamentary speaker; and the Ministry of the day—the
same that lost the colonies to Britain—found it of importance he should
be conciliated. His father had long desired, but never could obtain, the
Government appointment of Chief Justice in Eyre. It was known there was
nothing to be gained by conferring a favour of the kind on the first Lord Lyttelton:
he would have voted and spoken after exactly the same manner, whether he
got the appointment or no. But the second Lord was deemed a man of a
different stamp; and the place which the father, after his honest services
of forty years, had longed for in vain, the son, in the infancy of his peerage, ere he had performed a single service of any kind,
received unsolicited. The gift had its effect; and many of his after
votes were recorded on the side of Ministers, against Chatham and the
Americans. No party, however, could calculate very surely on his support:
he was frequently drawn aside by some eccentric impulse; and frequently
hit right and left in mere wantonness, without caring whether the stroke
fell on friend or foe. There were, meanwhile, sad doings
at Hagley. In "his father's decent hall," to employ the language of
Childe Harold,
condemned to uses vile,
Now Paphian girls were known to sing and smile. |
He had been married to a lady, of whom nothing worse has ever been said
than that she accepted his hand. Her, however, he had early deserted. But
the road he had taken, with all its downward ease and breadth, is not the
road which leads to happiness; and enough survives of his private history
to show that he was a very miserable man.
And none did love him: though to hall and bower
He gathered revellers
from far and near,
He knew them flatterers of the festal hour,
The heartless parasites of
present cheer;
Yea, none did love him—not his lemans dear.
|
He seems to have been strongly marked by the peculiar heartlessness so
generally found to co-exist with the gratuitous and flashy generosity of
men of grossly licentious lives; that petrifaction of feeling to which
Burns and Byron—both of them unfortunately but too well qualified to
decide on the subject—so pointedly refer. But he could feel remorse,
however incapable of pity, and remorse heightened—notwithstanding an
ostentatious scepticism—by the direst terrors of superstition. Among the
females who had been the objects of his temporary attachment, and had
fallen victims to it, there was a Mrs. Dawson, whose fortune, with her
honour and reputation, had been sacrificed to her passion, and who, on
being deserted by
his Lordship for another, did not long survive; she died broken-hearted,
bankrupt both in means and character. But though she perished without
friend, she was yet fully avenged on the seducer. Ever after, he believed
himself haunted by her spectre. It would start up before him in the
solitudes of Hagley at noonday—at night it flitted round his pillow—it
followed him incessantly during his rustication on the Continent—and is
said to have given him especial disturbance when passing a few days at
Lyons. In England, when residing for a short time with a brother nobleman,
he burst at midnight into the room in which his host slept, and begged in
great horror of mind, to be permitted to pass the night beside him; in his
own apartment, he said he had been strangely annoyed by an unaccountable
creaking of the floor. He ultimately deserted Hagley, which he found by
much too solitary, and in too close proximity with the parish
burying-ground; and removed to a country-house near Epsom, called Pit
Place, from its situation in an old chalk-pit. And here, six years after
the death of his father, the vital powers suddenly failed him, and he
broke down and died in his thirty-sixth year. There were circumstances
connected with his death that form the strangest part of his
story—circumstances which powerfully attracted public attention at the
time, and which, as they tasked too severely the belief of an incredulous
age, have been very variously accounted for. We find Dr. Johnson, whose
bias, however, did not incline him to the incredulous side, thus referring
to them in one of the conversations recorded by Boswell. "I mentioned,"
says the chronicler, "Thomas Lord Lyttelton's vision—the prediction of
the time of his death, and its exact fulfilment." JOHNSON—"It is the most
extraordinary thing that has happened in my day: I heard it with my own
ears from his uncle, Lord Westcote. I am so glad to have evidence of the
spiritual world that I am willing to believe it." Dr. ADAMS—"You have
evidence enough; good evidence, which needs not such support. "JOHNSON—"I like to have more."
This celebrated vision, long so familiar to the British public, that
almost all the writers who touch on it, from Boswell to Sir Walter Scott
inclusive, deal by the details as too well known to be repeated, is now
getting pretty much out of sight. I shall present the particulars,
therefore, as I have been able to collect them from the somewhat varying
authorities of the time. [7] His Lordship, on Thursday, November 5th, 1779,
had made the usual opening address to the Sovereign the occasion of a
violent attack on the Administration; "but this," says Walpole, "was,
notwithstanding his Government appointment, nothing new to him; he was
apt to go point blank into all extremes, without any parenthesis or
decency, nor even boggled at contradicting his own words." In the evening
he set out for his house at Epsom, carrying with him, says the same
gossiping authority, "a caravan of nymphs." He sat up rather late after
his arrival; and, on retiring to bed, was suddenly awakened from brief
slumber a little before midnight, by what appeared to be a dove, which,
after fluttering for an instant near the bed curtains, glided towards a
casement-window in the apartment, where it seemed to flutter for an
instant longer, and then vanished. At the same moment his eye fell upon a
female figure in white standing at the bed-foot, in which he at once
recognised, says Warner, "the spectre of the unfortunate lady that had
haunted him so long." It solemnly warned him to prepare for death, for
that within three days he should be called to his final account; and,
having delivered its message, immediately disappeared. In the morning his
Lordship seemed greatly
discomposed, and complained of a violent headache. "He had
had an extraordinary dream," he said, "suited, did he possess even a
particle of superstition, to make a deep impression on his mind;" and in
afterwards communicating the particulars of the vision, he remarked,
rather however in joke than earnest, that the warning was somewhat of the
shortest, and that really after a course of life so disorderly as his,
three days formed but a brief period for preparation. On Saturday he began
to recover his spirits, and told a lady of his acquaintance at Epsom that
as it was now the third and last day, he would, if he escaped for but a
few hours longer, fairly "jockey the ghost." He became greatly depressed,
however, as the evening wore on; and one of his companions, as the
critical hour of midnight approached, set forward the house-clock, in the
hope of dissipating his fears, by misleading him into the belief that he
had entered on the fourth day, and was of course safe. The hour of twelve
accordingly struck; the company, who had sat with him till now, broke up
immediately after, laughing at the prediction; and his Lordship retired
to his bedroom apparently much relieved. His valet, who had mixed up at
his desire a dose of rhubarb, followed him a few minutes after, and he sat
up in bed, in apparent health, to take the medicine; but being in want of
a tea-spoon, he despatched the servant, with an expression of impatience,
to bring him one. The man was scarce
a minute absent. When he returned, however, his master was
a corpse. He had fallen backwards on the pillow, and his outstretched hand
still grasped his watch, which exactly indicated the fatal hour of twelve. It has been conjectured that his dissolution might have been an effect of
the shock he received, on ascertaining that the dreaded hour had not yet
gone by: at all events, explain the fact as we may, ere the fourth day
had arrived, Lyttelton was dead. It has been further related, as a curious
coincidence, that on the night of his decease, one of his intimate
acquaintance at Dartford, in Kent, dreamed that his Lordship appeared to
him, and drawing back the curtain, said
with an air of deep melancholy, "My dear friend, it is all over; you see
me for the last time." [8]
The story has been variously accounted for. Some have held, as we learn
from Sir Walter Scott in his "Demonology," that his Lordship, weary of
life, and fond of notoriety, first invented the prediction, with its
accompanying circumstances, and then destroyed himself to fulfil it. And
it is added, in a note furnished by a friend of Sir Walter's, that the
whole incident has been much exaggerated. "I heard Lord Fortescue once
say," says the writer of the note, "that he was in the house with Lord
Lyttelton at the time of the supposed visitation, and he mentioned the
following circumstances as the only foundation for the extraordinary
superstructure at which the world has wondered:—'A woman of the party had
one day lost a favourite bird, and all the men tried to recover it for
her. Soon after, on assembling at breakfast, Lord Lyttelton complained of
having passed a very bad night, and having been worried in his dreams by a
repetition of the chase of the lady's bird. His death followed, as
stated in the story.' " Certainly, had this
been all, it would be scarce necessary to infer that his Lordship
destroyed himself. But the testimony of Lord Fortescue does not amount to
more than simply that, at first, Lord Lyttelton told but a part of his
dream; while the other evidence goes to show that he subsequently added
the rest. Nor does the theory
of the premeditated suicide seem particularly happy. If we must indeed
hold that the agency of the unseen world never sensibly mingles with that
of the seen and the tangible,
"To shame the doctrine of the Sadducee,"
we may at least deem it not very improbable that such a vision should have
been conjured up by the dreaming fancy of an unhappy libertine, ill at
ease in his conscience, sensible of sinking health, much addicted to
superstitious fears, and who, shortly before, had been led, through a
sudden and alarming indisposition, to think of death, Nor does it seem a
thing beyond the bounds of credibility or coincidence, that in the course
of the throe following days, when prostrated by his ill-concealed terrors,
he should have experienced a second and severer attack of the illness from
which, only a few weeks previous, he had with difficulty recovered. [9]
I returned to Stourbridge, where I halted to get some refreshment, and
wait the coach for Hales Owen, in an old-fashioned inn, with its
overhanging gable of mingled beam and brick fronting the street, and its
some six or seven rooms on the ground-floor, opening in succession into
each other like the rattles of a snake's tail. Three solid-looking
Englishmen, two of them farmers evidently, the third a commercial
traveller, had just sat down to a late dinner; and on the recommendation
of the hostess, I drew in a chair and formed one of the party. A fourth
Englishman, much a coxcomb apparently, greatly excited, and armed with a
whip, was pacing the floor of the room in which we sat: while in an outer
room of somewhat inferior pretensions, there was another Englishman, also
armed with a whip, and also pacing the floor; and the two, each from his
own apartment, were prosecuting an angry and noisy dispute together. The
outer-room Englishman was a groom—the inner
room Englishman deemed himself a gentleman. They had both got at the races
into the same gig, the property of the inn keeper, and quarrelled about
who should drive. The groom had argued his claim on the plea that he was
the better driver of the two, and that driving along a crowded race-ground
was difficult and dangerous: the coxcomb had insisted on driving because
he liked to drive, and because, he said, he didn't choose to be driven in
such a public place by a groom. The groom retorted, that though a groom,
he was as good a man as he was, for all his fine coat—perhaps a better
man; and so the controversy went on, till the three solid Englishmen,
worried at their meal by the incessant noise, interfered in behalf of the
groom. "Thou bee'st a foolish man," said one of the farmers to the
coxcomb; "better to be driven by a groom than to wrangle with a groom." "Foolish man!" iterated the other farmer, "thou's would have
broken the groom's neck and thee's own." "Ashamed," exclaimed the
commercial gentleman, "to be driven by a groom at such a time as
this—the groom a good driver too, and, for all that appears, an honest
man! I don't think any one should be ashamed to be driven by a groom; I
know I wouldn't." "The first un-English thing I have seen in England,"
said I: "I thought you English people were above littlenesses of that
kind." "Thank you, gentlemen, thank you," exclaimed the
voice from the other room; "I was sure I was right. He's a low fellow; I
would box him for sixpence." The coxcomb muttered something between his
teeth, and stalked into the apartment beyond that in which we sat; the
commercial gentleman thrust his tongue into his cheek as he disappeared;
and we were left to enjoy our pudding in peace. It was late and long this
evening ere the six o'clock coach started for Hales Owen. At length, a
little after eight, when the night had fairly set in, and crowds on crowds
had come pouring into the town from the distant race-ground, away it
rumbled, stuck over with a double fare of passengers, jammed on before and
behind, and occupying to the full every square foot a-top.
Though sorely be-elbowed and be-kneed, we had a jovial ride. England was
merry England this evening in the neighbourhood of Stourbridge. We passed
cart, and waggon, and gig, parties afoot and parties on horseback; and
there was a free interchange of jibe and joke, hail and halloo.
There seemed to be more hearty mirth and less intemperance afloat than I
have seen in Scotland on such occasions; but the whole appeared just
foolish enough notwithstanding; and a knot of low blackguard gamblers, who
were stuck together on the coach front, and conversing with desperate
profanity on who they did and by whom they were done, showed me that to
the foolish there was added not a little of the bad. The Hales Owen
road runs for the greater part of the way within the southern edge of the
Dudley coal-field, and, lying high, commands a downward view of its multitudinous workings for many miles. It presented from
the coach-top this evening a greatly more
magnificent prospect than by day. The dark space—a nether firmament, for
its grey wasteful desolation had disappeared with the vanished
daylight—was spangled bright by innumerable furnaces, twinkling and
star-like in the distance, but flaring like comets in the foreground. We
could hear the roaring of the nearer fires; here a tall chimney or massy
engine peered doubtfully out, in dusky umber, from amid the blackness;
while the heavens above glowed in the reflected light, a blood red. It was
near ten o'clock ere I reached the inn at Hales Owen; and the room into
which I was shown received, for more than an hour after, continual relays
of guests from the races, who turned in for a few minutes to drink gin and
water, and then took the road again. They were full of their backings and
their bets, and animated by a life-and-death eagerness to demonstrate how
Sir John's gelding had distanced my Lord's mare.
CHAPTER VIII.
Abbotsford and the Leasowes—The one place naturally
suggestive of the other—Shenstone—The Leasowes his most elaborate composition—The English
squire and his mill—Hales Owen Abbey; interesting, the subject of one of Shenstone's larger poems—The old anti-Popish feeling of England well
exemplified by the fact—Its origin and history—Decline—Infidelity
naturally favourable to the resuscitation and reproduction of Popery—The
two naileresses—Cecilia and Delis—Skeleton description of the Leasowes—Poetic
filling up—The spinster—The fountain.
I HAD come to Hales Owen to visit the Leasowes, the patrimony which poor
Shenstone converted into an exquisite poem, written on the green face of
nature, with groves and thickets, cascades and lakes, urns, temples, and
hermitages, for the characters. In passing southwards, I had seen from the
coach-top the woods of Abbotsford, with the turrets of the mansion-house
peeping over; and the idea of the trim-kept desolation of the place
suggested to me that of the paradise which the poet of Hales Owen had,
like Sir Walter, ruined himself to produce, that it, too, might become a
melancholy desert. Nor was the association which linked Abbotsford to the Leasowes by any means arbitrary: the one place may be regarded as having
in some degree arisen out of the other. "It had been," says Sir Walter,
in one of his prefaces, "an early wish of mine to connect myself with my
mother earth, and prosecute those experiments by which a species of
creative power is exercised over the face of nature. I can trace, even to
childhood, a pleasure derived from Dodsley's account of Shenstone's
Leasowes; and I envied the poet much more for the pleasure of
accomplishing the objects detailed in his friend's sketch of his grounds,
than for the possession of pipe, crook, flock, and Phillis to boot." Alas!
"Prudence singe to thoughtless bards in vain."
In contemplating the course of Shenstone, Sir Walter could see but the
pleasures of the voyage, without taking note of the shipwreck in which it
terminated; and so, in pursuing identically the same track, he struck on
identically the same shoal.
I had been intimate from a very immature period with the
writings of Shenstone. There are poets that require to be known
early in life, if one would know them at all to advantage. They give
real pleasure, but it is a pleasure which the mind outgrows; they belong
to the "comfit and confectionary-plum" class; and Shenstone is decidedly
one of the number. No mind ever outgrew the "Task," or the "Paradise
Lost," or the dramas of Shakspere, or the poems of Burns; they please in
early youth; like the nature which they embody and portray, they continue
to please in age. But the Langhorns, Wartons, Kirke Whites, Shelleys,
Keatses—shall I venture to say it?—Byrons, are flowers of the spring,
and bear to the sobered eye, if one misses acquainting one's-self with
them at the proper season, very much the aspect of those herbarium
specimens of the botanist, which we may examine as matters of curiosity,
but scarce contemplate—as we do the fresh uncropped flowers, with all
their exquisite tints and delicious odours vital within them—as the
objects of an affectionate regard. Shenstone was one of the ten or
twelve English poets whose works I had the happiness of possessing when a
boy, and which, during some eight or ten years of my life—for books at
the time formed luxuries of difficult procurement, and I had to make the
most of those I had—I used to read over and over at the rate of about
twice in the twelvemonth. And every time I read the poems, I was
sure also to read Dodsley's appended description of the Leasowes. I
could never form from it any idea of the place as a whole: the imagery
seemed broken up into detached slips, like the imagery of a magic lantern;
but then nothing could be finer than the insulated slips; and my mind was
filled with gorgeous pictures, all fresh and bright, of "sloping groves,"
"tufted knolls," "wooded valleys," "sequestered lakes," and "noisy
rivulets"—of rich grassy lawns, and cascades that come bursting in foam
from bosky hill-sides—of monumental urns, tablets, and temples—of
hermitages and priories; and I had now come to see in what degree my
conceptions, drawn from the description, corresponded with the original,
if, indeed, the original still maintained the impress given it by the
genius of Shenstone. His writings, like almost all poetic writings
that do not please equally at sixteen and sixty, had stood their testing
century but indifferently well. No one at least would now venture to
speak of him as the "celebrated poet, whose divine elegies do honour to
our nation, our language, and our species;" though such, sixty years ago,
was the estimate of Burns, when engaged in writing his preface to an
uncouth volume of poems first published at Kilmarnock, that promise to get
over their century with much greater ease. On the "Leasowes"—by far
the most elaborate of all the compositions of its author—the ingenious
thinking of full twenty years had been condensed; and I was eager to
ascertain whether it had not stood its testing century better under the skyey influences, than "Ophelia's Urn," or "the Song of Colin, a
discerning Shepherd," under those corresponding influences of the literary
heavens which freshen and preserve whatever has life in it, and wear down
and dilapidate whatever is dead.
A little after ten o'clock, a gentleman, who travelled in his
own carriage, entered the inn—a frank, genial Englishman, who seemed to
have a kind word for every one, and whom the inn-people addressed as the
Squire. My Scotch tongue revealed my country; and a few questions on
the part of the Squire, about Scotland and Scotch matters, fairly launched
us into conversation. I had come to Hales Owen to see the Leasowes,
I said: when a very young man, I used to dream about them full five
hundred miles away, among the rocks and hills of the wild north; and I had
now availed myself of my first opportunity of paying them a visit.
The Squire, as he in turn informed me, had taken the inn in his way to
rusticate for a few days at a small property of his in the immediate
neighbourhood of the Leasowes; and if I but called on him on the morrow at
his temporary dwelling—Squire Eyland's Mill—all the better if I came to
breakfast—he would, he said, fairly enter me on the grounds, and
introduce me, as we went, to the old ecclesiastical building which forms
the subject of one of Shenstone's larger poems, "The Ruined Abbey."
He knew all the localities—which one acquainted with but the old classic
descriptions would now find it difficult to realize, for the place had
fallen into a state of sad dilapidation—and often acted the part of
cicerone to his friends. I had never met with anything half so frank in
Scotland from the class who travel in their own carriages; and, waiving
but the breakfast, I was next morning at the Mill—a quiet, rustic
dwelling, at the side of a green lane—a little before ten. It lies at the
bottom of a flat valley, with a small stream, lined by many a rich meadow,
stealing between its fringes of willows and alders; and with the Leasowes
on the one hand, and the Clent Hills, little more than an hour's walk
away, on the other, it must form, in the season of green fields and clear
skies, a delightful retreat.
The Squire led me through the valley adown the course of the
stream for nearly a mile, and then holding to the right for nearly a
quarter of a mile more, we came full upon the ruins of Hales Owen Abbey. The mace of the bluff Harry had fallen heavy upon the pile: it had proved,
in after times, a convenient quarry for the neighbouring farm-houses, and
the repair of roads and fences for miles around; and so it now consists of
but a few picturesque fragments cut apart by wide gaps, in which we fail
to trace even the foundations—fragments that rise insulated and
tall—here wrapt up in ivy—there bristling with wallflower—over hay ricks, and antique farm offices, and moss-grown fruit trees, and all those
nameless appurtenances which a Dutchman would delight to paint, of a long
established barn-yard, farm-house, and orchard. I saw,
resting against one of the walls, the rudely-carved lid of a stone coffin,
which exhibits in a lower corner a squat figure in the attitude of
adoration; and along the opposite side and upper corner, an uncouth
representation of the crucifixion, in which the figure on the cross seems
that of a gaunt ill-proportioned skeleton. Covered over, however, with the
lichens of ages, and garnished with a light border of ground ivy—a plant
which greatly abounds amid the ruins—its antique mis-proportions seem
quite truthful enough, and impress more than elegance. One tall gable,
that of the chancel, which forms the loftiest part of the pile, still
remains nearly entire; and its great window, once emblazoned with the arms
of old Judge Lyttelton, but now stripped of stained glass and carved
mullion, is richly festooned with ivy. A wooden pigeon-house has been
stuck up in the opening, and half-a-dozen white pigeons were fluttering in
the sunshine this morning, round the ivied gable-top. The dust of the old
learned lawyer lies under the hay-ricks below, with that of nameless
warriors and forgotten churchmen; and when the spade turns up the soil,
fragments of human bones are found, thickly mingled with bits of painted
tiles and stained glass.
It may be thought I am but wasting words in describing so broken a ruin,
seeing I must have passed many finer ones undescribed; but it will, I
trust, be taken into account that I had perused the "Ruined Abbey" at
least twice every twelvemonth, from my twelfth to my twentieth year, and
that I had now before me the original of the picture. The poem is not a
particularly fine one. Shenstone's thinking required rhyme, just as Pope's
weakly person needed stays, to keep it tolerably erect; and the "Ruined
Abbey" is in blank verse. There is poetry, however, in some of the
conceptions, such as that of the peasant, in the days of John, returning
listless from his fields after the Pope had pronounced his dire anathema,
and seeing in every dark overbellying cloud
A vengeful angel, in whose waving scroll
He read damnation.
|
Nor is the following passage—descriptive of the same gloomy reason of
terror and deprivation—though perhaps inferior in elegance and effect to
the parallel passage in the prose of Hume, without merit:—
The wretch—whose hope, by stern oppression chased
From every earthly
bliss, still as it saw
Triumphant wrong, took wing and flew to heaven,
And
rested there—now mourned his refuge lost,
And wonted peace. The sacred
fane was barred;
And the lone altar, where the mourners thronged
To
supplicate remission, smoked no more;
While the green weed luxuriant rose around.
Some from their deathbed, in
delirious woe,
Beheld the ghastly king approach, begirt
In tenfold terrors, or, expiring, heard
The last loud clarion sound, and heaven's decree
With unremitting
vengeance bar the skies.
Nor light the grief—by Superstition weighed—
That their dishonoured corse,
shut from the verge
Of hallowed earth or tutelary fane,
Must sleep with brutes, their vassals, in the field,
Beneath some path in marle unexorcised.
|
The chief interest of the poem, however, does not lie in its poetry. It
forms one of the most curious illustrations I know of the strong
anti-Popish zeal, apart from religious feeling, which was so general in
England during the last century, and which, in the Lord-George-Gordon
mobs, showed itself so very formidable a principle when fairly aroused. Dickens's picture in "Barnaby Rudge," of the riots of 1780, has the merit
of being faithful;—his religious mobs are chiefly remarkable for being
mobs in which there is no religion; but his picture would be more faithful
still had he made them in a slight degree Protestant. Shenstone,
like the Lord-George-Gordon mob, was palpably devoid of religion—"an elegant
heathen, rather than a Christian," whose poetry contains verses in praise
of almost every god except the true one; and who, when peopling his
Elysium with half the deities of Olympus, saw nymphs and
satyrs in his very dreams. But though only an indifferent Christian, he
was an excellent Protestant. There are passages in the "Ruined Abbey"
that breathe the very spirit of the English soldiery, whose anti-Popish
huzzas, on the eve of the Revolution, deafened their infatuated monarch in
his tent. Take, for instance, the following:—
Hard was our fate while Rome's director taught
Of subjects
born to be their monarch's prey;
To toil for monks—for gluttony to toil—
For vacant gluttony, extortion, fraud,
For avarice, envy, pride, revenge, and shame!
Oh, doctrine breathed from Stygian caves! exhaled
From inmost Erebus!
|
Not less decided is the passage in which he triumphs over the suppression
of the Monasteries, "by Tudor's wild caprice."
Then from its towering height, with horrid sound,
Rushed the proud
Abbey. Then the vaulted roofs,
Torn from their walls, disclosed the wanton
scene
Of monkish chastity! Each angry friar
Crawled from his bedded strumpet, muttering low
An ineffectual curse. The
pervious nooks,
That ages past conveyed the guileful priest
To play some image on the
gaping crowd,
Imbibe the novel daylight, and expose
Obvious the fraudful engin'ry of Rome.
|
Even with all his fine taste, and high appreciation, for the purposes of
the landscape gardener, of bona fide pieces of antiquity, rich in association, it is questionable, from the following passage, whether his
anti-Popish antipathies would not have led him to join our Scotch
iconoclasts in their stern work of dilapidation.
Henceforth was plied the long-continued task
Of righteous havock,
covering distant fields
With the wrought remnants of the shattered pile;
Till recent, through the land, the pilgrim sees
Rich tracts of brighter
green, and in the midst
Grey mouldering walls, with nodding ivy crowned,
Or Gothic turret, pride of ancient days,
Now but of use to grace a rural scene,
To bound our vistas, and to glad the sons
Of George's reign, reserved for fairer times
|
In "The Schoolmistress," the most finished and pleasing of Shenstone's
longer poems, we find one of the sources of the feeling somewhat
unwittingly exhibited. "Shenstone learned to read," says Johnson, in his
biography, "of an old dame, whom his poem of 'The Schoolmistress' has
delivered to posterity." "The house of my old school-dame, Sarah Lloyd,"
we find the poet himself saying, in one of his earlier letters (1741), "is to be seen as thou travellest towards the native home of thy faithful
servant. But she sleeps with her fathers, and is buried with her fathers;
and Thomas her son reigneth in her stead." Of the good Sarah Lloyd we
learn from the poem—a piece of information suited to show how shrewd a
part Puseyism is acting in possessing itself of the humbler schools of the
country—that
She was just, and friend to virtuous lore,
And passed much time in truly
virtuous deed,
And in her elfins' ears would oft deplore
The times when truth by Popish rage did bleed,
And tort'rous death was
true devotion's meed,
And simple Faith in iron chains did mourn,
That nould on wooden image place her creed,
And lawny saints in smouldering
flames did burn:
Oh, dearest Lord, forfend thilk days should ere return! |
The anti-Popish feeling of England which existed, as in Shenstone, almost
wholly apart from doctrinal considerations, seems to have experienced no
diminution till after the suppression of the rebellion of 1745. A long
series of historic events had served first to originate, and then to fill
with it to saturation every recess of the popular mind. The horrors of the
Marian persecution, rendered patent to all by the popular narratives of
Fox—the Invincible Armada and its thumb-screws—the diabolical plot of
the time of James—the Irish Massacre of the following reign—the fierce
atrocities of Jeffreys in the Monmouth rising, intimately associated in
the Protestant mind of the country with the Popery of his master—the
imprisonment of the bishops—and the influence of the anti-Romish teaching
of the English Church after the Revolution, with the dread, for
many years, of a Popish Pretender—had all united to originate and
develop the sentiment which, in its abstract character, we find so
adequately represented in Shenstone. Much about the time of the poet's
death, however, a decided reaction began to take place. The Pretender
died; the Whigs originated their scheme of Roman Catholic Emancipation;
atheistic violence had been let loose on the clergy of France, not in
their character as Popish, but in their character as Christian; and both
the genius of Burke and the piety of Hall had appealed to the Protestant
sympathies of England in their behalf. The singularly anomalous position
and palpable inefficiency of the Irish Establishment had created a very
general diversion in favour of the Popish majority of Ireland; the
Voluntary controversy united Evangelistic Dissent and Roman Catholicism by
the bonds of a common cause—at least Evangelistic Dissent was fond enough
to believe the cause a common one, and learned to speak with respect and
regard of "Roman Catholic brethren;" the spread of Puseyism in the
English Establishment united, by sympathies of a different but not weaker
kind, the Papist and the High Churchman; the old anti-Popish feeling has
been gradually sinking under the influence of so many reactive causes, and
not since the times of the Reformation was at so low an ebb as in England
at the present day. It would seem as if every old score was to be blotted
off, and Popery to be taken a second time on trial. But it will ultimately
be found wanting, and will, as in France and Germany, have just to be
condemned again. The stiff rigidity of its unalterable codes of practice and
belief—inadequately compensated by the flexibility of its wilier
votaries—has incapacitated it from keeping up with the human mind in its
onward march. If it be the sure destiny of man to
it must be the as inevitable fate of Popery to sink. The excesses of
fifteen hundred years have vitiated and undermined its constitution,
intellectual and moral; its absurder beliefs have become incompatible with
advanced knowledge—its more despotic assumptions with rational freedom; and were it not for the craving
vacuum in the public mind which infidelity is continually creating for
superstition to fill, and into which Popery is fitfully rushing, like
steam into the condenser of an engine, again and again to be annihilated,
and again and again to flow in, its day, in at least the more enlightened
portions of the empire, would not be long.
There seems to be a considerable resemblance at bottom between the old
English feeling exemplified in Shenstone, and that which at present
animates the Ronge movement in Germany. We find the English poet
exclaiming,
Hail, honoured Wycliffe, enterprising sage!
An Epicurus in the cause of
truth!!
|
And the continental priest—occupying at best but a half-way position
between Luther and Voltaire, and who can remark in his preachings that "
if Roman Catholics have a Pope at Rome, the Protestants have made their
Pope of a book, and that that book is but a dead letter"—apostrophizes in
a similar spirit the old German Reformers. I can, however, see nothing inconsis tent in the zeal of such men. It does not greatly require the aid
of religion to enable one to decide that exhibitions such as that of the
holy coat of Trèves are dishonest and absurd, or to warm with
indignation at the intolerance that would make one's liberty or life pay
the penalty of one's freedom of opinion. Shenstone, notwithstanding his
indifference to the theological, was quite religious enough to have been
sabred or shot had he been at Paris on the eve of St. Bartholomew, or
knocked on the head if in Ulster at the time of the Irish massacre. What,
apart from religious considerations, is chiefly to be censured and
regretted in the zeal of the Rouges and Shenstones, Michelets, and
Eugène Sues, is, not that it is inconsistent, but that it constitutes at best but a vacuum-creating power. It forms a void where, in
the nature of things, no void can permanently exist, and which
superstition is ever rushing in to fill; and so the
progress of the race, wherever it is influentially operative, instead of
being conducted onwards in its proper line of march, becomes a weary
cycle, that ever returns upon itself. The human intellect, under its
influence, seems as if drawn within the ceaselessly-revolving eddies of a
giddy maelstrom, or as if it had become obnoxious to the remarkable curse
pronounced of old by the Psalmist—I quote from the version of Milton—
My God! oh, make them as a wheel;
No quiet let them find;
Giddy and restless let them reel
Like stubble from the wind. |
History is emphatic on the point. Nearly three centuries have elapsed
since the revived Christianity of the Reformation supplanted Roman
Catholicism in Scotland. But there was no vacuum created; the space
previously taken up in the popular mind by the abrogated superstition was
amply occupied by the resuscitated faith; and, as a direct consequence,
whatever reaction in favour of Popery may have taken place among the
people is of a purely political, not religious character. With Popery as a
religion, the Presbyterian Scotch are as far from closing now as they
ever were. But how entirely different has
been the state of matters in France! There are men still living
who remember the death of Voltaire. In the course of a single lifetime,
Popery has been twice popular and influential in that country, and twice
has the vacuum-creating power, more than equally popular and influential
for the time, closed chill and cold around it, to induce its annihilation. The literature of France for the last half-century is curiously
illustrative of this process of action and reaction—of condensation and
expansion. It exhibits during that period three distinct groups of
authors. There is a first group of vacuum-creators—a surviving remnant of
the Encyclopedists of the previous half-century—adequately represented by Condorcet and the Abbé Raynal; next appears a group of the reactionists,
represented equally well by Chateaubriand and Lamartine; and then—for
Popery has again become
monstrous—we see a second group of vacuum-creators in the Eugène Sues
and Michelets, the most popular French writers of the present day. And
thus must the cycle revolve, "unquiet and giddy as a wheel," until France
shall find rest in the Christianity of the New Testament.
I spent so much time among the ruins, that my courteous conductor, the
Squire, who had business elsewhere to attend to, had to leave me, after
first, however, setting me on my way to the Leasowes, and kindly
requesting me to make use of his name, if the person who farmed the
grounds demurred, as sometimes happened with strangers, to give me
admission to them. I struck up the hill, crossed a canal that runs along
its side, got into a cross road between sheltered belts of planting, and
then, with the Leasowes full in front, stopped at a small nailery, to ask
at what point I might most easily gain access to them. The sole workers in
the nailery were two fresh-coloured, good-looking young girls, whose agile,
well-turned arms were plying the hammer with a rapidity that almost eluded
the eye, and sent the quick glancing sparks around them in showers. Both
stopped short in their work, and came to the door to point out what they
deemed the most accessible track. There was no gate, they said, in this
direction, but I would find many gaps in the fence: they were in doubt,
however, whether the people at the "white house" would give me leave to
walk over the grounds: certainly the nailer lads were frequently refused; and they were sorry they couldn't do anything for me: I would be sure
of permission if they could give it me. At all events, said I, I shall
take the longest possible road to the white house, and see a good deal of
the grounds ere I meet with the refusal. Both the naileresses laughed; and
one of them said she had always heard the Scotch were "long-headed." Hales Owen and its precincts are included in the great iron district of
Birmingham; and the special branch of the iron trade which falls to the
share of the people is the manufacture of nails. The
suburbs of the town are formed chiefly of rows of little brick houses,
with a nail-shop in each; and the quick, smart patter of hammers sounds
incessantly, in one encircling girdle of din, from early morning till late
night. As I passed through, on my way to the Squire's Mill, I saw whole
families at work together—father, mother, sons, and daughters; and met
in the street young girls, not at all untidily dressed, considering the
character of their vocation, trundling barrowfuls of coal to their forges,
or carrying on their shoulders bundles of rod-iron. Of all our poets of
the last century, there was scarce one so addicted to the use of those
classic nicknames which impart so unreal an air to English poetry, when
bestowed on English men and women, as poor Shenstone. We find his verses
dusted over with Delias, and Cecilias, and Ophelias, Flavias, and Fulvias,
Chloes, Daphnes, and Phillises; and, as if to give them the necessary
prominence, the printer, in all the older editions, has relieved them from
the surrounding text by the employment of staring capitals. I had read Shenstone early enough to wonder what sort of looking people his Delias
and Cecilias were; and now, ere plunging into the richly-wooded Leasowes,
I had got hold of the right idea. The two young naileresses were really
very pretty. Cecilia, a ruddy blonde, was fabricating tackets; and Delia,
a bright-eyed brunette, engaged in heading a double-double.
Ere entering on the grounds, however, I must attempt doing what Dodsley
has failed to do—I must try whether I cannot give the reader some idea of
the Leasowes as a whole, in their relation to the surrounding country. Let
us, then, once more return to the three Silurian eminences that rise
island-like from the basin of the Dudley coal-field, and the parallel line
of trap hills that stretches away amid the New Red Sandstone. I have
described the lines as parallel, but, like the outstretched sides of a
parallel-ruler, not opposite. There joins on, however, to the Silurian
line—like a prolongation of one of the right lines
of the mathematician indicated by dots—an extension of the chain, not
Silurian, which consists of eminences of a flatter and humbler character
than either the Wren's Nest or the Castlehill, and which runs opposite to
the trap chain for several miles. One of these supplementary eminences—the
one adjoining the Castle-hill—is composed of the trap to which the entire
line owes its elevation; and a tall, cairn-like group of apparent
boulders, that seem as if they had been piled up by giants, but are mere
components of a partially disintegrated projection from the rock below,
occupies its summit. In the flat hill directly beyond it, though the trap
does not appear, it has tilted up the Lower Coal Measures, amid the
surrounding New Red Sandstone, saddlewise on its back; the strata shelve
downwards on both sides from the anticlinal line a-top, like the opposite
sides of a roof from the ridge; and the entire hill, to use a still
humbler illustration, resembles a huge blister in new plaster formed by
the expansion of some fragment of unslaked lime in the ground-coating
beneath. Now, it is with this hill of the Lower Coal Measures—this huge
blister of millstone grit—that we have chiefly to do.
Let the reader imagine it of soft swelling outline, and ample base, with
the singularly picturesque trap range full in front, some four miles away,
and a fair rural valley lying between. Let him further imagine the side of
the hill furrowed by a transverse valley, opening at right angles into the
great front valley, and separating atop into two forks, or branches, that
run up, shallowing as they go, to near the hill-top. Let him, in short,
imagine this great valley a broad right line, and the transverse forked
valley a gigantic letter Y resting on it. And this forked valley on the
hill-side—this gigantic letter Y—is the Leasowes. The picturesqueness of
such a position can be easily appreciated. The forked valley, from head to
gorge, is a reclining valley, partaking along its bottom of the slope of
the eminence on which it lies, and thus possessing, what is by
no means Common among the valleys of England, true downhill water-courses,
along which the gathered waters may leap in a chain of cascades ; and
commanding, in its upper recesses, though embraced and sheltered on every
side by the surrounding hill, extending prospects of the country below. It
thus combines the scenic advantages of both hollow and rising ground, -the
quiet seclusion of the one, and the expansive landscapes of the other. The
broad valley into which it opens is rich and
well wooded. Just in front of the opening we see a fine sheet of water,
about twenty acres in extent, the work of the monks ; immediately to the
right stand the ruins of the Abbey; immediately to the left, the pretty
compact town of Hales Owen lies grouped around its fine old church and
spire ; a range of green swelling eminences rises beyond; beyond these,
fainter in the distance, and considerably bolder in the outline, ascends
the loftier range of the trap hills—one of the number roughened by the
tufted woods, and crowned by the obelisk at Hagley ; and, over all, blue
and shadowy on the far horizon, sweeps the undulating line of the
mountains of Cambria. Such is the character of the grounds which poor Shenstone set himself to convert into an earthly paradise, and such the
outline of the surrounding landscape. But to my hard anatomy of the scene
I must add the poet's own elegant filling up:—
Romantic scenes of pendent hills,
And verdant vales and falling rills,
And mossy banks the fields adorn, where
Damon, simple swain, was born,
The
Dryads reared a shady grove,
Where such as think, and such as love,
Might
safely sigh their summer's day,
Or muse their silent hours away.
The Oreads liked the climate well,
And taught the level plains to swell
In
verdant mounds, from whence the eye
Might all their larger works descry.
The Naiads poured their urns around
From nodding rocks, o'er vales
profound;
They formed their streams to please the view,
And bade them wind
as serpents do;
And having shown them where to stray,
Threw little pebbles in their way.
|
I got ready permission at the house of the Leasowes—a modern building
erected on the site of that in which Shenstone resided—to walk over the
grounds; and striking upwards directly along the centre of the angular
tongue of land which divides the two forks of the valley, I gained the top
of the hill, purposing to descend to where the gorge opens below along the
one fork, and to re-ascend along the other. On the hill-top, a single
field's breadth beyond the precincts of the Leasowes, I met a tall
middle-aged female, whose complexion, much embrowned by the sun, betrayed
the frequent worker in fields, and her stiff angularity of figure, the
state of single blessedness, and "maiden meditation, fancy free," which
Shakspere complimented in Elizabeth. I greeted her with fair good day, and
asked her whether the very fine grounds below were not the Leasowes? or,
as I now learned to pronounce the word, Lisos—for when I gave it its long
Scotch sound, no one in the neighbourhood seemed to know what place I
meant. "Ah, yes," said she, "the Lisos!—they were much thought of long
ago, in Squire Shenstone's days; but they are all ruinated now; and,
except on Sundays, when the nailer lads get into them, when they can, few
people come their way. Squire Shenstone
was a poet," she added, "and died for love." This was not quite the case:
the Squire, who might have married his Phillis had he not been afraid to
incur the expense of a wife, died of a putrid fever at the sober age of
forty-nine; but there would have been little wit in substituting a worse
for a better story, and so I received without challenge the information of
the spinster. In descending, I took the right-hand branch of the valley,
which is considerably more extended than that to the left. A low cliff,
composed of the yellow gritty sandstone of the Lower Coal Measures, and
much overhung by stunted alder and hazel bushes, stands near the head of
the ravine, just where the
Leasowes begin, and directly out of the middle of the cliff, some three or
four feet from its base, there comes leaping to the light, as out of the
smitten rock in the wilderness, a clear and copious spring—one of the "health-bestowing" fountains,
All bordered with moss,
Where the harebells and violets grew. |
Alas! moss and harebells and violets were gone, with the path which had
once led to the spot, and the seat which had once fronted it; the waters
fell dead and dull into a quagmire, like young human life leaping out of
unconscious darkness into misery, and then stole away through a boggy
strip of rank grass and rushes, along a line of scraggy alders. All was
changed, save the full-volumed spring, and it,—
A thousand and a thousand years,
'Twill flow as now it flows. |
CHAPTER IX.
Detour—The Leasowes deteriorated wherever the poet had
built, and improved wherever he had planted—View from the hanging
wood—Stratagem of the island screen—Virgil's grave—Mound of the Hales
Owen and Birmingham Canal; its sad interference with Shenstone's poetic
description of the infancy of the Stour—Vanished cascade and
root-house—Somerville's urn—"To all friends round the Wrekin"—River
scenery of the Leasowes; their great variety—Peculiar arts of the poet;
his vistas, when seen from the wrong end, realizations of Hogarth's
caricature—Shenstone the greatest of landscape-gardeners—Estimate of
Johnson—Goldsmith's history of the Leasowes; their after history.
THE water creeps downwards from where it leaps from
the rock, to form a chain of artificial lakes, with which the bottom of
the dell is occupied, and which are threaded by the watercourse, like a
necklace of birds' eggs strung upon a cord. Ere I struck down on the
upper lake, however, I had to make a detour of a few hundred yards to the
right, to see what Dodsley describes as one of the finest scenes furnished
by the Leasowes—a steep terrace, commanding a noble prospect—a hanging
wood—an undulating pathway over uneven ground, that rises and falls like
a snake in motion—a monumental tablet—three rustic seats—and a temple
dedicated to Pan. The happy corner which the poet had thus stuck
over with so much bravery is naturally a very pretty one. The
hill-side, so gentle in most of its slopes, descends for about eighty
feet—nearly at right angles with the forked valley, and nearly parallel
to the great valley in front—as if it were a giant wave on the eve of
breaking; and it is on this steep rampart-like declivity—this giant
wave—that the hanging wood was planted, the undulating path formed, and
the seats and temple erected. But all save the wood has either
wholly vanished, or left behind but the faintest traces—traces so faint
that, save for the plan of the grounds appended to the second edition of Dodsley's description, they would have told me no distinct story.
Ere descending the rampart-like acclivity, but just as the
ground begins gradually to rise, and when I should be passing, according
to Dodsley, through the "Lover's Walk," a sequestered arboraceous lane,
saddened by the urn of "poor Miss Dolman"—"by the side of which" there
had flowed "a small bubbling rill, forming little peninsulas, rolling over
pebbles, or falling down small cascades, all under cover, and taught to
murmur very agreeably"—I found myself in a wild tangled jungle, with no
path under foot, with the "bubbling rill" converted into a black lazy
swamp, with thickets of bramble all around, through which I had to press
my way, as I best could, breast-high—"poor Miss Dolman's" urn as fairly
departed and invisible as "poor Miss Dolman;" in short, everything that
had been done undone, and all in readiness for some second Shenstone to
begin de novo. As the way steepened, and the rank aquatic
vegetation of the swamp, once a runnel, gave place to plants that affect a
drier habitat, I could detect in the hollow of the hill some traces of the
old path; but the place forms a receptacle into which the gusty winds
sweep the shorn leafage of the hanging wood above, and so I had to stalk
along the once trimly-kept walk, through a stratum of decayed leaves,
half-leg deep. In the middle of the hanging wood I found what had
been once the temple of Pan. There is a levelled space on the
declivity, about half the size of an ordinary sitting parlour: the winds
had swept it bare; and there, distinctly visible on three sides of the
area, are the foundation of a thin brick wall, that, where least broken,
rises some six or eight inches above the level. A little further on,
where the wood opens on one of the loveliest prospects I ever beheld, I
found a decayed oak-post remaining, to indicate the locale of a seat that
had once eulogized the landscape which it fronted in a classic Latin
inscription. But both seat and inscription are gone. And yet
maugre this desolation, not in the days of Shenstone did the Leasowes look
so nobly from this elevation as they did this day. I was forcibly
reminded of one of the poet's own remarks, and the completeness of its
realization:—"The works of a person that builds," he says, "begin
immediately to decay; while those of him who plants begin directly to
improve. In this, planting promises a more lasting pleasure than
building." The trees of the Leasowes, when the Leasowes formed the
home and furnished the employment of the poet, seem to have been mere
saplings. We find him thus writing to a friend in the summer of
1743:—"A malignant caterpillar has demolished the beauty of all our large
oaks. Mine are secured by their littleness. But I guess Hagley
Park suffers—a large wood near me being a winter-piece for nakedness."
More than a hundred years have since elapsed, and the saplings of a
century ago have expanded into the dignity of full-grown treehood. The
hanging wood, composed chiefly of very noble beeches, with a sprinkling of
graceful birches on its nether skirt, raises its crest so high as fully to
double the height of the eminence which it crowns; while the oaks on the
finely varied ground below, of imposing size, and exhibiting in their
grouping the hand of the master, compose such a scene as the finest of the
landscapes designed by Martin in illustration of Milton's "Paradise Lost." The day was warm, calm, cloudless; the lights and shadows lay clear and
transparent on lake and stream, dell and (tingle, green swelling lawn and
tall forest-tree; and the hanging wood, and the mossy escarpment over
which it hangs, were as musical in the bright sunshine, with the murmur of
bees, as when, exactly a hundred and two years before, Shenstone was
penning his pastoral ballad.
Quitting, the hanging wood, I struck athwart the declivity,
direct on the uppermost lake in the chain which I have described as lying,
like a string of birds' eggs, along the bottom of the valley. I found it
of small extent—a pond or lochan,
rather than a lake—darkly coloured—its still black surface partially
embroidered by floats of aquatic plants, among which I could detect the
broad leaves of the water lily, though the flowers were gone—and overhung
on all sides by careless groups of trees, that here and there dip their
branches in the water. In one striking feature of the place we may still
detect the skill of the artist. There is a little island in the upper part
of the lake, by much too small and too near the shore to have any
particular interest as such; or, indeed, viewed from below, to seem an
island at all. It is covered by a thick clump of alders of low growth,
just tall enough and thick enough to conceal, screen-like, the steep bank
of the lake behind. The top of the bank is occupied by several lofty oaks; and as the screen of alders hides the elevation on which they stand,
they seem to rise direct from the level of the water to the giant stature
of a hundred feet. The giants of the theatre are made by setting one man
on the shoulders of another, and then throwing over both a large cloak;—the giant trees here are made by setting them upon the shoulders of a
hill, and making the thick island-screen serve the purpose of the
concealing mantle.
The second lake in the chain—a gloomier and smaller piece of water than
the first, and much hidden in wood—has in its present state no beauty to
recommend it; it is just such an inky pool, with rotten snags projecting
from its sluggish surface, as a murderer would select for concealing the
body of his victim. A forlorn brick ruin, overflooded by the
neighbouring streamlet, and capped with sickly ivy, stands at the upper
end—at the lower, the waters escape by a noisy cascade into a secluded
swampy hollow, overshadowed by stately oaks and ashes, much intermixed
with trees of a lower growth—yew, holly, and hazel—and much festooned
with ivy. We find traces of an untrodden pathway on both sides the stream,
with the remains of a small mouldering one-arched bridge, now never
crossed over, and divested of both its parapets; and in the centre of
a circular area, surrounded by trees of loftiest stature, we may see about
twice as many bricks as an Irish labourer would trundle in a wheelbarrow,
arranged in the form of a small square. This swampy hollow is the "Virgil's Grove," so elaborately described by Dodsley, and which so often
in the last age employed the pencil and the burine; and the two barrowfuls
of brick are all that remain of the obelisk of Virgil. I had run not a few
narrow chances of the kind before; but I now fairly sunk half to the knees
in the miry bottom, and then pressing onwards, as I best could,
Quenched in a boggy Syrtis, neither sea
Nor good dry land, nigh foundered, on I fared,
Treading the crude
consistence half on foot,
Half flying. |
till I reached a drier soil beside yet another lake in the chain, scarce
less gloomy, and even more sequestered, than the last. There stick out
along its edges a few blackened stumps, on which several bushy clusters of
fern have taken root, and which, overshadowed by the pendent fronds, seem
so many small tree-ferns. I marked here, for the first time, the glance of
scales and the splash of fins in the water; but they belonged not to the
"fishes of gold" sung by the poet, but to some half-dozen pike that I
suppose have long since dealt by the fishes of gold as the bulkier
contemporaries of the famous Jack the Giant-killer used to deal by their
guests. A further walk of a few hundred yards through the wooded hollow
brought me to the angle where the forks of the dell unite and form one
valley. A considerable piece of water—by much the largest on the
grounds—occupies the bottom of the broad hollow which they form by their
union—the squat stem, to use a former illustration, of the letter Y; and
a long narrow bay runs from the main body of the lake up each of the two
forks, losing itself equally in both, as it contracts and narrows, amid
the over-arching trees.
There is a harmony of form as certainly as of sound—a music
to the eye in the one, as surely as to the ear in the other
had hitherto witnessed much dilapidation and decay, but it was
dilapidation and decay on a small scale; I had seen merely the wrecks of a
few artificial toys, scattered amid the sublime of nature; and there were
no sensible jarrings in the silent concert of the graceful and the lovely,
which the entire scene served to compose. Here, however, all of a sudden,
I was struck by a harsh discord. Where the valley should have opened its
noble gateway into the champaign—a gateway placed half-way between the
extended magnificence of the expanse below, and the more closely
concentrated beauties of the dells above—there stretches, from bank to
bank, a stiff, lumpish, rectilinear mound, some seventy or eighty feet in
height, by some two or three hundred yards in length, that bars out the
landscape—deals, in short, by the wanderer along the lake or through the
lower reaches of the dell, as some refractory land-steward deals by some
hapless railway surveyor, when, squatting down full before him, he spreads
out
a broad extent of coat-tail, and eclipses the distant sight. Poor
Shenstone!—it would have broken his heart. That unsightly mound conveys
along its flat level line, straight as that of a ruler, the Birmingham and
Hales Owen Canal. Poor Shenstone once more! With the peculiar art in which
he excelled all men, he had so laid out his lakes, that the last in the
series seemed to piece on to the great twenty-acre lake dug by the monks,
and so to lose itself in the general landscape. And in one of his letters
we find him poetical on the course of the vagrant streams —those of his
own grounds—that feed it. "Their first appearance," he says, "well
resembles the playfulness of infancy: they skip from side to side with a
thousand antic motions, that answer no other purpose than the mere
amusement of the proprietor. They proceed for a few hundred yards, and
then their severer labours begin, resembling the graver toils of manhood. They set mills in motion, turn wheels, and ply hammers for manufactures of
all kinds; and in this manner roll on under the name of the Stour,
supplying works for casting, forging, and
shaping iron for every civil and military purpose. Perhaps you may not
know that my rills are the principal sources of this river; or that it
furnishes the propelling power to more ironworks than almost any other
single river in the kingdom." The dull mound now cuts off the sportive
infancy of the Stour from its sorely-tasked term of useful riverhood. There is so cruel a barrier raised between the two stages, that we fail to
identify the hard-working stream below with the playful little runnels
above. The water comes bounding all obscurely out of the nether side of
the mound, just as it begins its life of toil—a poor thing without a
pedigree, like some hapless child of quality stolen by the gipsies, and
sold to hard labour.
Passing upwards along the opposite branch of the valley, I found a
succession of the same sort of minute desolations as I had met in the
branch already explored. Shenstone's finest cascades lay in this direction; and very fine, judging from the description of Dodsley, they must have
been. "The eye is here presented," says the poetic bibliopole, "with a
fairy vision, consisting of an irregular and romantic fall of water, one
hundred and fifty yards in continuity; and a very striking and unusual
scene it affords. Other cascades may have the advantage of a greater
descent and a larger stream; but a more wild and romantic appearance of
water, and at the same time strictly natural, is difficult to be met with
anywhere. The scene, though small, is yet aggrandized with so much art,
that we forget the quantity of water which flows through this close and
overshadowed valley, and are so much pleased with the intricacy of the
scene, and the concealed height from whence it flows, that we, without
reflection, add the idea of magnificence to that of beauty. In short, it
is only upon reflection that we find the stream is not a Niagara, but
rather a waterfall in miniature; and that by the same artifice upon a
larger scale, were there large trees in place of small ones, and a river
instead of a rill, a scene so formed would exceed the utmost of our
ideas." Alas for the beautiful
cascade! Here still was the bosky valley, dark and solitary, with its
long withdrawing bay from the lake speckled by the broad leaves of the
water-lily; old gnarled stems of ivy wind, snake-like, round the same
massy trunks along which they had been taught to climb in the days of the
poet; but for the waterfall, the main feature of the scene, I saw only a
long dark trench—much crusted by mosses and liverworts, and much
overhung by wood—that furrows the side of the hill; and for the tasteful
root-house, erected to catch all the beauties of the place, I found only a
few scattered masses of brick, bound fast together by the integrity of the
cementing lime, and half-buried in a brown stratum of decayed leaves. A
little further on, there lay across the runnel a huge monumental urn of
red sandstone, with the base elevated and the neck depressed. It dammed up
enough of the little stream to form a reservoir at which an animal might
drink, and the clayey soil around it was dibbled thick at the time by the
tiny hoofs of sheep. The fallen urn had been inscribed to the memory of
Somerville the poet.
This southern fork of the valley is considerably shorter than the northern
one; and soon rising on the hill-side, I reached a circular clump of
firs, from which the eye takes in the larger part of the grounds at a
glance, with much of the surrounding country. We may see the Wrekin full
in front, at the distance of about thirty miles: and here, in the centre
of the circular clump, there stood, says Dodsley, an octagonal seat, with
a pedestal-like elevation in the middle, that served for a back, and on
the top of which there was fixed a great punch-bowl, bearing as its
appropriate inscription the old country toast, "To all friends round
the Wrekin." Seat and bowl have long since vanished, and we see but the
circular clump. At the foot of the hill there is a beautiful piece of
water, narrow and long, and skirted by willows, with both its ends so
hidden in wood, and made to wind so naturally, that instead of seeming
what it is—merely a small pond—it seems one of the reaches of a fine
river. We detect, too,
the skill of the poet in the appearance presented from this point by the
chain of lakes in the opposite fork of the valley. As seen through the
carefully-disposed trees, they are no longer detached pieces of water, but
the reaches of a great stream—a sweeping inflection, we may suppose, of
the same placid river that we see winding through the willows, immediately
at the hill-foot. The Leasowes, whose collected waters would scarce turn a
mill, exhibit, from this circular clump, their fine river scenery. The background
beyond rises into a magnificent pyramid of foliage, the apex of which is
formed by the tall hanging wood on the steep acclivity, and which sweeps
downwards on each side in graceful undulations, now rising, now falling,
according to the various heights of the trees or the inequalities of the
ground. The angular space between the two forks of the valley occupies the
foreground. It sinks in its descent towards the apex—for the pyramid is
of course an inverted one—from a scene of swelling acclivities, fringed
with a winding belt of squat, broad-stemmed beeches, into a soft sloping
lawn, in the centre of which, deeply embosomed in wood, rise the white
walls of the mansion-house. And such, as they at present exist, are the Leasowes—the
singularly ingenious composition inscribed on an English hillside, which
employed for twenty long years the taste and genius of Shenstone. An eye
accustomed to contemplate nature merely in the gross, and impressed but by
vast magnitudes or by great multiplicity, might not find much to admire in
at least the more secluded scenes—in landscapes a furlong or two in
extent, and composed of merely a few trees, a few slopes, and a pond, or
in gloomy little hollows, with interlacing branches high over-head,
and mossy runnels below. But to one not less accustomed to study the forms
than to feel the magnitudes—who can see spirit and genius in even a
vignette, beauty in the grouping of a clump, in the sweep of a knoll, in
the convexity of a mossy bank, in the glitter of a half-hidden stream, or
the blue gleam of a solitary lochan—one who can appreciate all in nature
that the true landscape-painter admires and develops—will still find much to engage him
amid the mingled woods and waters, sloping acclivities and hollow valleys,
of the Leasowes. I have not yet seen a piece of ground of equal extent
that exhibits a tithe of its variety, or in which a few steps so
completely alter a scene. In a walk of half a mile, one might fill a whole
portfolio with sketches, all fine and all various.
It was chiefly in the minuter landscapes of the place that I missed the
perished erections of the poet. The want of some central point on which
the attention might first concentrate, and then, as it were, let itself
gradually out on the surrounding objects, served frequently to remind me
of one of the poet's own remarks. "A rural scene to me is never perfect,"
he
says, "without the addition of some kind of building. I have, however,
known a scar of rock in great measure supplying the
deficiency." Has the reader observed how unwittingly Bewick seems to have
stumbled on this canon, and how very frequently the scar of rock—somewhat
a piece of mannerism, to be sure, but always fine, and always
picturesquely overhung with foliage—is introduced as the great central
object into his
vignettes? In nature's, too, the effect, when chance-embodied
in sonic recluse scene, must have been often remarked. I have seen a huge
rock-like boulder, roughened by lichens, giving animation and cheerfulness
to the wild solitude of a deep forest clearing; and a grey undressed
obelisk, reared many centuries ago over the savage dead, imparting
picturesqueness and interest to a brown sterile moor.
With the poet's erections, every trace of his lesser ingenuities has
disappeared from the landscape—his peculiar art, for instance, of
distancing an object to aggrandize his space, or in contriving that the
visitor should catch a picturesque glimpse of it just at the point where
it looked best; and that then, losing sight of it, he should draw near by
some hidden path, over which the eye had not previously travelled. The
artist,
with his many-hued pigments at command, makes one object seem near and
another distant, by giving to the one a deeper and to the other a fainter
tinge of colour. Shenstone, with a palette much less liberally furnished,
was skilful enough to produce similar effects with his variously-tinted
shrubs and
trees. He made the central object in his vista some temple or root-house,
of a faint retiring colour; planted around it trees of a diminutive size
and a "blanched fady hue," such as the "almond willow" and "silver
osier;" then, after a blank space, he planted another group of a deeper
tinge—trees of the average hue of the forest, such as the ash and the
elm; and then, last of all, in the foreground, after another blank space,
he laid down trees of deep-tinted foliage, such as the dark glossy holly,
and the still darker yew. To the aërial, too, he added the linear
perspective. He broadened his avenues in the foreground, and narrowed them
as they receded; and the deception produced he describes—and we may well
credit him, for he was not one of the easily satisfied—as very
remarkable. The distance seemed greatly to increase, and the grounds to
broaden and extend. We may judge from the nature of the device, of the
good reason he had to be mortally wroth with members of the Lyttelton
family, when, as Johnson tells us, they used to make a diversion in favour
of Hagley, somewhat in danger of being eclipsed at the time, by bringing
their visitors to look up his vistas from the wrong end. The picture must
have been set in a wofully false light, and turned head downwards to boot,
when the distant willows waved in the foreground beside the dimly-tinted
obelisk or portico, and the nearer yews and hollies rose stiff, dark, and
diminutive, in an avenue that broadened as it receded, a half-dozen
bowshots behind them. Hogarth's famous caricature on the false perspective
of his contemporary brethren of the easel, would in such a case be no
caricature at all, but a truthful representation of one of Shenstone's
vistas viewed from the wrong end.
Some of the other arts of the poet are, however, as I have already had
occasion to remark, still very obvious. It was one of his canons, that "when an object had been once viewed from its proper point, the foot should
never travel to it by the same path which the eye had travelled over
before." The visitor suddenly lost it, and then drew near obliquely. We
can still see that all his pathways, in order to accommodate themselves to
this canon, were covered ways, which winded through thickets and hollows. Ever and anon, whenever there was aught of interest to be seen, they
emerged into the open day, like moles rising for a moment to the light,
and then straightway again buried themselves from view. It was another of
his canons, that "the eye should always look down upon water." "Customary nature," he remarks, "made the thing
a necessary requisite." "Nothing," it is added, "could
be more sensibly
displeasing than the breadth of flat ground," which an acquaintance,
engaged, like the poet, though less successfully, in making a
picture-gallery of his property, had placed "between his terrace and his
lake." Now, in the Leasowes, wherever water is made to enter into the
composition of the landscape, the eye looks down upon it from a commanding
elevation—the visitor never feels, as he contemplates it, that he is in
danger of being carried away by a flood, should an embankment give way. It
was yet further one of Shenstone's canons, that ''no more slope from the
one side to the other can be agreeable ground: the eye requires a
balance," not, however, of the kind satirized by Pope, in which
each alley has its brother,
And half the platform just reflects the
other;
|
but the kind of balance which the higher order of landscape painters
rarely fail to introduce into their works. "A building, for instance, on
one side, may be made to contrast with a group
of trees, a large oak, or a rising hill, on the other." And in meet
illustration of this principle, we find that all the scenes of
the Leasowes are at least well balanced, though most of their central
points are unluckily away: the eye never slides off the landscape, but
cushions itself upon it with a sense of security and repose: and the
feeling, even when one fails to trace it to its origin, is agreeable.
"Whence," says the poet, "does this taste proceed, but from the love we
bear to regularity in perfection? But, after all, in regard to gardens,
the shape of the ground, the disposition of the trees, and the figure of
the water, must be sacred to nature, and no forms must be allowed that
make a discovery of art."
England has produced many greater poets than Shenstone, but she never
produced a greater landscape-gardener. In at least this department he
stands at the head of his class, unapproachable and apart, whether pitted
against the men of his own generation, or those of the three succeeding
ones. And in any province in which mind must be exerted, it is at least
some thing to be first. The estimate of Johnson cannot fail to be familiar
to almost every one. It is, however, so true in itself, and so exquisitely
characteristic of stately old Samuel, that I must indulge in the
quotation. "Now was excited his [Shenstone's] delight in rural
pleasures, and his ambition of rural elegance. He began to point his
prospects, to diversify his surface, to entangle his walks, and to wind
his waters; which he did with such judgment and such fancy as made
his little domain the envy of the great and the admiration of the
skilful—a place to be visited by travellers and copied by designers.
Whether to plant a walk in undulating curves, and to place a bench at
every turn where there is an object to catch the view—to make water run
where it will be heard, and to stagnate where it will be seen—to leave
intervals where the eye will be pleased, and to thicken the plantation
where there is something to be hidden—demand any great powers of mind, I
will not inquire: perhaps a surly and sullen spectator may think such
performances rather the sport than the business of human
reason. But it must be at least confessed, that to embellish the form of
nature is an innocent amusement; and some praise must be allowed by the
most supercilious observer to him who does best what such multitudes are
contending to do well."
But though England had no such landscape-gardener as Shenstone, it
possessed denizens not a few, who thought more highly of their own taste
than of his; and so the history of the Leasowes, for the ten years that
immediately succeeded his death, is a history of laborious attempts to
improve what he had rendered perfect. This history we find recorded by
Goldsmith, in one of his less known essays. Considerable allowance must be
made for the peculiar humour of the writer, and its exaggerative tendency;
for no story, real or imaginary, ever lost in the hands of Goldsmith; but
there is at least an air of truth about its general details. "The garden,"
he says, "was completely grown and finished: the marks of every art were
covered up by the luxuriance of nature—the winding walks were grown dark—the brooks assumed a natural selvedge—and the rocks were covered with
moss. Nothing now remained but to enjoy the beauties of the place, when
the poor poet died, and his garden was obliged to be sold for the benefit
of those who had contributed to its embellishment.
"The beauties of the place had now for some time been celebrated as well
in prose as in verse; and all men of taste wished for so envied a spot,
where every turn was marked with the poet's pencil, and every walk
awakened genius and meditation. The first purchaser was one Mr. Truepenny,
a button-maker, who was possessed of three thousand pounds, and was
willing also to be possessed of taste and genius.
"As the poet's ideas were for the natural wildness of the landscape, the
button-maker's were for the more regular productions of art. He conceived,
perhaps, that as it is a beauty in a button to be of a regular pattern, so
the same regularity ought to obtain in a landscape. Be that as it will, he
employed
the shears to some purpose: he clipped up the hedges, cut down the gloomy
walks, made vistas on the stables and hog-sties, and showed his friends
what a man of true taste should always be doing.
"The next candidate for taste and genius was a captain of a ship, who
bought the garden because the former possessor could find nothing more to
mend: but unfortunately he had taste too. His great passion lay in
building in making Chinese temples and cage-work summer-houses. As the
place before had the appearance of retirement, and inspired meditation, he
gave it a more peopled air; every turning presented a cottage or icehouse,
or a temple; the garden was converted into a little city, and it only
wanted inhabitants to give it the air of a village in the East Indies.
"In this manner, in less than ten years the improvement has gone through
the hands of as many proprietors, who were all willing to have taste, and
to show their taste too. As the place had received its best finishing from
the hands of the first possessor, so every innovator only lent a hand to
do mischief. Those parts which were obscure, have been enlightened; those
walks which led naturally, have been twisted into serpentine windings. The
colour of the flowers of the field is not more various than the variety of
tastes that have been employed here, and all in direct contradiction to
the original aim of its first improver. Could the original possessor but
revive, with what a sorrowful heart would he look upon his favourite spot
again! He would scarcely recollect a dryad or a wood-nymph of his former
acquaintance; and might perhaps find himself as much a stranger in his own
plantation as in the deserts of Siberia."
The after history of the Leasowes is more simple. Time, as certainly as
taste, though much less offensively, had been busy with seat and temple,
obelisk and root-house; and it was soon found that, though the poet had
planted, he had not built, for posterity. The ingenious antiquary of
Wheatfield discovered in
the parsonage-house garden of his village, some time about the middle of
the last century, a temple of lath and plaster, which had been erected, he
held, by the old Romans, and dedicated to Claudius Cæsar; but the lath
and plaster of these degenerate days do not last quite so long. The
progress of dilapidation was further accelerated by the active habits of
occasional visitors. Young men tried their strength by setting their
shoulders to the obelisks; and old women demonstrated their wisdom by
carrying home pieces of the seats to their fires: a robust young fellow
sent poor Mr. Somerville's urn a-spinning down the hill; a vigorous
iconoclast beheaded the piping fawn at a blow. There were at first large
additions made to the inscriptions, of a kind which Shenstone could scarce
have anticipated; but anon inscriptions and additions too began to
disappear; the tablet in the dingle suddenly failed to compliment Mr.
Spence; and Virgil's grove no longer exhibited the name of Virgil. "The ruinated Priory wall" became too thoroughly a ruin; the punchbowl was
shivered on its stand; the iron ladle wrenched from beside the ferruginous
spring; in short, much about the time when young Walter Scott was gloating
over Dodsley, and wishing he too had a property of which to make a
plaything, what Shenstone had built and inscribed on the Leasowes could be
known but from Dodsley alone. His artificialities had perished, like the
artificialities of another kind of the poets his contemporaries; and
nothing survived in his more material works, as in their writings, save
those delightful portions in which he had but given body and expression to
the harmonies of nature. |